comes in and goes out of the home is one of those processes we take for granted--until we can't take a shower or make the toilet flush properly. A call to a licensed plumber can mean an expensive hourly fee, but the science of plumbing is fairly straightforward, and most problems are simpler to solve than you might think. So grab a mop and then turn the page--you might just be able to fix that dripping faucet on your own more quickly and with less effort than it takes to find a pro. And you'll avoid that big repair bill.You're spending a lot more time in the bathroom than you'd like because your toilet never seems to completely flush on the first try.A poorly flushing standard toilet can be caused by a number of different problems. Lift the tank cover, and first check the chain that runs from the flapper cap to the flush handle; if it is too long, the handle won't lift the flapper cap sufficiently. Shorten the chain length by hooking into another link of the chain. Next, look at the water level in the tank--the amount of water affects how strong the flush will be.

If the tank is not filling all the way (there should be a fill line on the inside of the tank), carefully bend the bulb of the float valve up a bit and see if the tank will fill. If it does not, check the toilet bowl rim holes (through which the water enters the bowl) with a small mirror, and if they are blocked, clean them with a small nail and acid-based porcelain cleaner. If none of the above does the trick, you may have a misadjusted or faulty fill valve that needs replacement.The phantom flush--that mysterious phenomenon in which your toilet seems to flush itself--can be little jarring late at night, not to mention a waste of water.The problem is usually caused by water slowly leaking from the cistern into the bowl because of a worn-out flapper valve. When the rubber flapper is compromised, it allows water to run out of the drain causing the toilet to constantly refill. Replacing it is easy--replacements are available at most hardware stores or home centers. Be sure to take the old one with you to find a correctly matching replacement.

Low-flow toilets are a great way to save water, but sometimes yours simply doesn't flush strongly enough.Ed Del Grande, an expert for the Kohler company and host of DIY Network's "Ed the Plumber," has dealt with many low-flow toilet issues. He says, "Always check the manufacturer's instructions to set the fill valve to make sure the water level in the tank is correct. For instance, most Kohler tanks have a proper fill line marked inside the tank. And a good rule of thumb, if there is no line, is to keep the water level a half inch below the top of the overflow tube inside the tank."A constantly running toilet is testing your sanity.The problem is most likely the flapper valve not sealing properly. First, make sure that nothing--such as a brick to raise the water level or a toilet-bowl cleaner dispenser--is blocking the valve from closing properly. This includes removing any mineral deposits around the seat beneath the valve. Also check that the pull chain attached to the valve is not too short and holding the valve slightly open.

A toilet tank is dripping, and you can't tell if the water is coming from harmless seasonal sweating or a bad seal.Dump some food coloring into the tank and see if the color reaches the floor. If it does, check the tank for cracks and the piping for loose connections.The toilet is about to overflow, and you know that your usual tactic of slamming the lid and crossing your fingers won't work.Used Furniture Buyers In Orange County NyAs soon as the level in the bowl starts rising, reach into the tank and prop up the fill valve (the ball or cylinder that floats on top of the water). T Shirts For RedheadsThat will stop the flow to the toilet, thwarting an overflow. Weather Curtains For PatioThe plunger, however, still awaits.You've just stepped into the shower when some family member flushes the toilet downstairs and makes you a victim of shower shock.

In a busy household it's inevitable that someone is going to use the toilet when someone else is using the shower. The problem is that a toilet flushing draws cold water away from the shower, making for a quick and unpleasant temperature change. The answer is to slow the rate of the toilet flush so that the effect is minimized. Find the water valve to the toilet tank and close it until it is about a quarter to one-half turn from completely shut off. The tank will fill slower, but if it's the difference between second-degree burns and mild temperature fluctuation, that doesn't really matter, now does it?Although most homeowners are surprised by how easy plumbing problems can be to fix, certain situations require greater expertise. For the most part, any major problem is best handled by a licensed plumber. These include:* Where a water leak is severe and the collecting water threatens to cause damage to the home's structure before it can drain away.* Any situation in which raw sewage is backing up into the home.* In the event that the water supply to your home is entirely cut off and you don't know how to restore it.* When you can't find the source of a leak or the cause of a plumbing problem.

When hiring a plumber, always check to make sure that he or she is licensed and has up-to-date insurance. Also be aware that your plumbing emergency may be covered by your homeowner's insurance-- always check with your insurance carrier.You may periodically hear your toilet begin to spontaneously refill, as though someone had flushed it. A toilet that cuts on and off by itself, or runs intermittently, has a problem that plumbers call a phantom flush. The cause is a very slow leak from the tank into the bowl. This problem is almost certainly caused by a bad flapper or flapper seat. The solution is to drain the tank and bowl, check and clean the flapper seat, and replace the flapper if it's worn or damaged. If you hear a sustained hissing sound coming from your toilet, it's probably a result of water trickling into the tank via the supply line. In this case the parts to check are the float, the refill tube and the ballcock or inlet-valve assembly. The hissing sound is typically caused by water coming through the inlet valve.

First check to see whether the float is sticking or needs adjusting. Next, check to make sure the refill tube isn't inserted too far into the overflow tube. (It should extend only about 1/4" below the rim of the overflow tube.) If neither of these adjustments solves the problem, you'll probably need to replace the ballcock assembly as described above. A bowl that empties slowly -- also known as a weak flush -- is usually the result of clogged holes underneath the rim of the bowl. Use a curved piece of wire to poke gently into each flush hole to clear out any debris. Coat-hanger wire works fine, and a small mirror will help you see under the rim. You can also use wire to loosen debris that may be blocking the siphon jet in the bottom of the drain. Be careful not to scratch the bowl. Clogs are the most common toilet problems. Several tools can help you clear a clogged drain. A force-cup plunger is more effective than the familiar standard type for clearing minor clogs. Insert the bulb into the drain, and pump forcefully.

Slowly release the handle, letting a little water in so you can see whether the drain is clear. For serious clogs, use a closet auger. Insert the end of the auger into the drain hole, and twist the handle as you push the rotor downward. Use caution not to scratch the bowl. A standard toilet has at least five seals with the potential for leaking. In each case, the solution is to identify the faulty seal and tighten or replace it. The largest seal is the one between the tank and bowl. A break here will cause a major leak, with water shooting out from underneath the tank at every flush. Replacing this seal involves draining and removing the tank. Turn the tank upside down for better access. Remove the old seal and pop on a new one. The smaller seals at the mounting bolts and the base of the ballcock may also fail and cause smaller leaks. Replace these in the same way. Tightening the bolts or mounting nut occasionally is enough to stop the leak. The final seal is the wax seal mounted on a plastic flange underneath the toilet base.