Verdera Side Mirror Kit 48 in. x 48 in. Acrylic Mirror Strip Installation Kit 60 in. x 60 in. Cherry Walnut Contemporary Complete Installation KitAcrylic Mirror Strips (2-Pack) Small Poster Strips (12-Pack)L x 4 in. W Fixed-Mount Mirror Mounting Clips (4-Pack) 4 mm Plastic Mirror Clip with ScrewsW Acrylic Mirror Complete Installation Kit Acrylic Mirror Corner Plates (4-Pack) Cherry Walnut 60 in. x 60 in. Decorative Mirror Framing Installation Kit Mirror Mounting Tape Squares Acrylic Mirror Seam Cover Plates (2-Pack)Chrome Plated Round Mirror Rosette A-Maze-ing Picture Hooks (4-Pack)Zinc-Plated Mirror Mount Nut 5 in x 8 in Magnifying Mirror with Towel Ring in Brushed NickelClear Star Mirror RosetteStar Mirror Rosette in ClearBathroom Makeover PROGRESS & Mirror review So slowly but surely our master bath has been getting a makeover. It’s pretty much on the back burner for awhile, so I figured I better show you what we have done so far.

I was so lucky to be able to review such beautiful Frames for my mirrors. I can’t believe the difference that they make. I was so annoyed when we first moved in and I realized it was nearly impossible to remove those mirrors that were plastered to our walls. When Mirror Mate asked me to review one of their mirrors, I was so excited and ALL for covering those ugly mirrors!! Especially since I didn’t have to do hardly any work!! That’s my kind of makeover! A few words from Mirror Mate: That Plain, Bare Mirror! Easy to put up Comes as a complete kit the 20 Minute Mirror Makeover™ I do have to say Mirror Mate’s customer service was great, and the frame shipped out really fast! I LOVE the finish we chose, it looks great! I was also really impressed with how easy it was to put together as well. It really did only take us about 15 min to put up! And what a difference it makes in our bathroom! After our kitchen remodel we had some extra paint and bead board left… so I decided to paint all the cabinets in the bathroom as well!

I am LOVING the white! posted in DIY crafts, Reviews, Tutorial Stay up to DateFinally got around to the step by step for my big mirror redo!  Step 1: Measure the mirror.  My mirror is pretty much covers the entire wall above the vanity.  So I decided to make my frame the exact size of the mirror, attaching it directly to the glass.  I also accounted for where the top piece of molding would be in relation to the light fixture. Step 2:  Choose your molding.   Although I’ve never made a miter cut before, there has to be a first time for everything, right?  We went with primed MDF casing.  It came in 8 foot lengths, but I know it also comes in random lengths at some stores as well.  In that case, you can have the store cut it for you and you will have less waste.  I had to purchase (3) 8 foot pieces at about $6/each. As mentioned in my previous post, I originally chose the same molding and corner pieces used in Rhoda’s transformation.  However, my mirror has an irritating piece of track at the bottom. 

The regular door casing worked better for us because you have the ability to play with the angles a bit to account for the extra space that the track creates.  (I promise that this will make more sense while doing the project than when you’re reading it.) Step 3:  Making the cuts.  MDF cuts very easily with a miter box.  It helps to draw out the frame on paper before making the cuts.  That way you know what angles you need to make for each side. Step 4:  Painting the molding.  I chose Behr’s Dark Truffle, a deep brown color that compliments our wall color.  Best Steam Cleaning OvenSince the color was so deep, I had to do two coats. Patio Furniture Family DollarDon’t forget to paint the back…you will see it in the reflection of the mirror once it’s attached.  Buy Puma Suede Shoes

Painting of fingers, however, is completely optional. Step 5:  Attaching the mirror.  As suggested in other wonderful mirror redo’s (Rhoda and Maryann), I attempted to use a high heat hot glue gun.  However, in the end, I found it easier to use Clear Liquid Nails.  Using the hot glue was just too fast paced for me.  It began to dry before I could get it in place or I put it up so fast that I didn’t get it up straight.  TIP:  If you need to remove any pieces of molding, take a long piece of dental floss and run it behind the molding.  The Liquid Nails gave me a time to play with the placement a little.  However, I did use painters tape to keep the molding in place overnight while the glue completely set up.  I applied a decent amount of the Liquid Nails to each piece of molding, being sure not to get too close to the inner edge.  It will reflect in the mirror and nobody wants to see your DIY magic revealed!!! Step 6:  Touchups and DONE!  The next day I filled the small gaps on all four corners where the molding meets up with caulk. 

Be sure to use the paintable caulk!!  After that dried, I touched up the caulked areas with my Behr paint and called it a day.   A BIG thanks to Rhoda @ Southern Hospitality, Maryann’s @ Domestically Speaking and Sausha @ {show & tell} .  These gals were wonderful at responding to my questions and have great tutorials on framing mirrors.  Please check out all three of their wonderful mirror redo projects!Hanging a mirror, especially a large one, usually is more difficult than hanging a picture of the same size.Because mirrors are heavy, awkward and fragile, more planning and organization are necessary, and greater attention must be given to installing the wall fasteners.Still, the task is not beyond amateurs.Mirrors are available in two styles: unbacked, merely a sheet of glass with one silvered side, or backed with a hardboard panel.Most backed mirrors come with adjustable metal fasteners attached.Depending on thickness, mirrors can weigh as much as 3 1/2 pounds per square foot.Backed mirrors usually are smaller and thus relatively easy to handle.

But when hanging any but a small, backed mirror, such as one over a bathroom basin, have an assistant help lift and steady it.When hanging an unbacked mirror of any size, an assistant is necessary.When carrying a mirror, hold it vertically; carrying a large mirror horizontally can cause it to break in the middle under its own weight.Large mirrors should be carried by two people, each holding an end.If a mirror drops, do not attempt to catch it; jump back to avoid injury. Before installing a mirror, check the wall for flatness. A mirror will wobble unless it hangs against a flat surface. Or it might break if fasteners around the rim press it too tightly against a bulge.To check the wall, use a straight-edged board longer than the mirror is wide. A yardstick may do; otherwise use a piece of 1-by-3 lumber.Hold the board on edge against the wall and slide it over the surface. Bulges will cause the board to rock back and forth.If you detect any area that bulges more than 1/8 inch from the surrounding surface, mark its approximate perimeter with a pencil.

Sand the area flat, using medium or coarse sandpaper.Where to draw the lineWhen you are ready to hang the mirror, draw a horizontal guideline on the wall to position the mirror`s bottom edge.Use a carpenter`s level as a straightedge, and make the line as long as the mirror is wide.If the mirror is backed, the next step is to measure it vertically from the bottom of the mirror to the top edge of the hole in one of the hangers.(Be sure both the loops on the hangers are adjusted equally and are positioned at about the middle of their range. This permits making further adjustments later, if necessary.)Measure the same distance up from the guideline and draw a second horizontal line, parallel with the first.Then measure from each side of the mirror to the center of the nearest fastener. Make short vertical marks crossing the upper horizontal line at these points.Position J-hooks, J-shaped metal fasteners available at hardware stores and from mirror suppliers, over the intersecting lines so the base of each hook rests on the line.

Then fasten the hooks to the wall; on wallboard or plaster walls, use hollow-wall fasteners such as toggle bolts, molly bolts or screws driven into wall anchors, which are expandable plugs.All of these are available at hardware stores, usually packaged with installation instructions.Wall anchors also can be used to fasten hooks in masonry. If wood framing is encountered behind wallboard or plaster walls, use ordinary wood screws.Hang it-carefullyHang the mirror carefully from the J-hooks. Avoid using picture wire for hanging mirrors.Wire lacks adequate strength and may gradually stretch and break.Check your work by resting the level on the top edge of the mirror.If adjustments are necessary, remove the mirror from the wall, adjust the hangers, then rehang the mirror.To install an unbacked mirror, draw a horizontal line, as described earlier, to indicate the mirror`s bottom edge.Along the line, install a row of J-hooks positioned so that the base of each is even with the line.Space the hooks at intervals dividing the mirror into thirds or quarters, or as specified by the mirror supplier.

If the hooks are not padded, cut narrow strips of adhesive-backed felt and place them on the J-shaped part, where the glass will touch the hooks, over the screw heads.Instead of J-hooks, a J-strip, a single J-shaped metal strip, can be used. It, too, should be padded.Next, measure the height of the mirror and use a level to draw vertical lines on the wall indicating the mirror sides. These should extend upward at right angles from the horizontal line.Along the sides, loosely attach additional fasteners, either L-clips or Z-clips, at intervals similar to the clips already installed. Fasteners are not required along the top of the mirror, but for esthetic reasons, you might want to install L- or Z-clips at appropriate intervals.L-clips are often made of clear plastic.One side rests against the outside of the mirror; the other, perpendicular to it, contains a screw that fastens the clip to the wall.Z-clips are metal strips bent in a zigzag shape that produces two flat sides.One side rests against the mirror;

the other, drilled to accept a screw, rests against the wall.Like J-hooks or a J-strip, L- and Z-clips should be padded with adhesive- backed felt where they touch the glass.In addition, felt squares should be attached to the back of the mirror where the fasteners press it against the wall. If the wall is not smooth, several thicknesses of felt can be used as shims to keep the mirror from touching bulges.When you are ready to lift the mirror into place, make sure the side fasteners hang out of the way.To attach the mirror, lift it by the sides and place the bottom edge into the J-hooks or J-strip.Tilt the mirror backward against the wall and carefully tighten the L- or Z-clips just enough to hold the mirror firmly. Reports Sought In Jonbenet's Sister's DeathNewly disclosed account surfaces in 1966 Valerie Percy murder casePain relievers: What are the differences? Princess Grace`s Fatal Crash: Her Daughter`s AccountDark meaning of bubble-gum Pumped Up Kicks is tough to chew10 reasons why you want the job