This 1980s light fixture was making this bathroom look very dated. Replacing it is not hard. Before you start the job, be sure to take these safety precautions: Switch off and tape off (or lock out) the breaker to any circuit being worked (turning off the wall switch is not enough as someone could inadvertently switch it back). Use a non-contact voltage detector to verify the breaker/power is off. Check all wires as some wiring conventions allow the hot wire color to vary (three way switches and fans); always use insulated tools and wear insulated gloves if possible. Remove the existing light bulbs. Be careful as they may be hot and stubborn ones can break off in the socket base. Every light is different, your steps for removal may vary. Usually wall lights are secured with two or more knurled or decorative nuts. There may also be small screws on the sides of the light holding it to the mounting plate. Once the light is separated from the base, check all wires for voltage. If all is safe, remove one wire nut at a time, separate the wires and screw the wire nut back on the wall side.

Remove any screws holding the light base to the wall. Once the old light is completely removed, determine whether there is an existing electrical box. Older homes are likely not to have a junction box. Adding one now is smart for structural reasons as well as electrical safety. In our case, not only did the existing light lack a junction box. but the fixture sat off center from the mirror because of a wall stud. Ceiling boxes are available as shallow as ½” for placement right over a structural unit like our large mirror. If your light is not at a wall stud, an “old work” renovation boxes are available with swing out tabs to mount directly to the drywall. Use a 4” hole saw to remove the drywall and mount the new box. Be careful to move wiring out of the way first and only cut deep enough to get through the drywall. Install the new light base plate to the box. Be sure to run the circuit wires through a knock out hole. Level the base plate in the vertical or horizontal position depending on your style of light.

Now is also a good time to fill any old mounting holes that won't be utilized or covered up. Start by installing the bare copper grounds from the wall and the light to the green screw on the base mounting plate. Next join the white wires together with a new wire nut, then the black wires. Tuck everything neatly into the junction box. Mount the new light being careful to tuck any loose wires into the base. You may need to adjust the mounting studs on the base plate out so the decorative nuts can be installed. Loosely tighten and level the light before final tightening. When the new light is fully connected and installed, make sure the wall switch is off. Flip the breaker that was turned off and make sure it stays on for at least 10 seconds before returning to the light. Test the light with the wall switch. No one wants an awesome bathroom with an awful light. With a little safe planning, you can update that old light fixture in no time.That single, small lighting fixture protruding from the middle of your bathroom ceiling doesn't cut it by today's lighting standards.

Alternative sources of general lighting include recessed ceiling fixtures and indirect lighting that bounces off the ceiling or the walls. Adequate task lights have become a must, too.Pink Chevron Baby Quilt How the bathroom lighting is selected and placed depends on the size and layout of your bathroom. Replace Bathtub Faucet A Comprehensive ViewIt also depends on the color scheme — bright colors reflect and enhance lighting effects, while dark hues absorb and subdue them. Nigerian Weight Loss CenterMost experts recommend using incandescent bulbs in the bathroom because the light they produce has natural, complexion-flattering properties. But incandescent bulbs also produce a good deal of heat that's often unwanted. Compact fluorescent fixtures are a good alternative;

they demand far less electricity per lumen (a measurement of light intensity), and the tubes render a warm, pleasing spectrum of colors. Consider having a dimmer switch installed for your bathroom's overall lighting (though fluorescent lighting doesn't typically function on a dimmer switch). This will let you adjust the light to suit your needs and mood. Dimmers also make nighttime visits to the bathroom more bearable, since the light can be turned down below the blinding level. When planning a lighting design for your bathroom, follow these guidelines to ensure adequate general lighting: Small or large, a bathroom typically functions as a grooming center. For this reason, the area in front of the mirror should be evenly illuminated and free of shadows. Light sources should be placed so that light emanates from above, below and both sides of the mirror. If you have light coming only from above, it hits your eyebrows and causes shadows beneath your eyes — not an encouraging sight first thing in the morning.

The first consideration should be a fixture that casts light just over the front edge of the sink and countertop. If you choose a light-colored countertop, more light will reflect up onto your face. Then add more lights centered on each side of the mirror. If fluorescent fixtures are selected to illuminate a mirror, tubes designed for vanity illumination or tubes that produce daylight-spectrum light is ideal. The light from standard fluorescent tubes can be cold and harsh — acceptable for office or shop lighting but not for makeup application. Use one 24-inch, 20-watt tube on each side of the mirror. Two 24-inch, 20-watt tubes mounted above the mirror or a 32-watt circle light on the ceiling will offer adequate lighting. If fixtures are selected that require incandescent light bulbs, one option is to mount a wall fixture or pendant lamp on each side of the mirror. These side lights should each contain two 60- or 75-watt bulbs. If the ceiling fixture is round, it should be at least 12 inches in diameter and contain a bulb or bulbs rated at a total of 100 to 120 watts.

Mirrors that are 36 inches or more in width may require a different approach. If standard guidelines are followed, the center of the mirror may look a bit dark. To avoid this, more powerful overhead light fixtures should be selected, and full coverage over the width of the mirror should be ensured. An effective option is a double row of recessed ceiling fixtures over the vanity. Small powder rooms typically require a light above the mirror, a fixture on each side of the mirror, and a ceiling light directed toward the front edge of the vanity countertop. In an enclosed shower or tub area, most codes call for enclosed, vapor-proof lights. Use caution when positioning them, however; you don't want to look right into the light when you're lying in the tub. An infrared heat lamp mounted just outside the tub or shower will help you to avoid chilly exits. All switches should be located at least six feet from the tub and shower. In toilet compartments, a centered ceiling fixture using a 60- to 75-watt incandescent bulb or a 30- to 40-watt fluorescent tube should be installed.