Deck For Hot Tub Support

Before the deck can be built, mark off the designated area with spray paint. Then, use a backhoe, shovels and rakes to clear the area of brush and debris. To determine the size and shape of the deck, measure the dimensions of the hot tub. Use these measurements to make a temporary frame out of 2x4's that will act as a guide for the deck's footers. This temporary frame will eventually be replaced by a permanent frame that is slightly larger to allow for expansion and contraction. Cover the ground inside the temporary frame with gravel to keep water away from the bottom of the hot tub. Dig holes for the cement footers that will support the hot tub. Also, dig holes for the footers that will support the deck. Fill the holes with quick setting concrete mix and add water. Allow the concrete to dry. Build the permanent frame for the deck out of 2x6 pressure-treated beams (Images 1 and 2). Pressure-treated wood is critical since the deck will be exposed to rain and the water from the hot tub, and pressure-treated lumber resists damage and deterioration from exposure to water or moisture.

Once the frame is nailed together, it needs to be squared. Measure diagonally from corner to corner to determine if it is. You will also need to be sure that the hot tub frame is centered with the exterior frame of the deck. Tie nylon string diagonally from corner to corner of the exterior frame. Then, shift hot tub frame until the corners line up with the nylon string.
Wonder Wood Window BlindsDetermine how much extra room will be needed to allow for the deck to expand and contract.
Dogs For Sale Anna IlNow you are ready to replace the hot tub’s temporary frame with a permanent frame (Image 3).
Modern Curtain Panels Sale After the frame is shifted into place, place 4x4 support posts in the footer holes, one in each corner and a few in between.

Then, drill each support post to the frame with coated deck screws. When the inner frame is squared and centered, attach the frames to one another with several 2x6 joists. These joists will act as supports for the deck. Attach a right angle bracket to the base of each support post. Because the posts are set in concrete, first drill pilot holes, and then secure the brackets with concrete screws.How to Reinforce a Deck for a Spa / Hot Tub out of 5 stars on 4 ratings When you add a spa or hot tub to a deck you are adding a lot of weight. This "How to Guide" is to show one possibility of reinforcing your deck so that it can properly support the added weight from your spa or hot tub. Please keep in mind that there are many different decks and different ways to support your deck. This is one way that my engineer provided to reinforce my deck for my spa. Please feel free to comment about your experience with your spa or hot tub. The first step is to talk to an engineer. After adding a spa, plus water, plus people in the hot tub you can add around 6000 lbs to your deck.

My spa started off at 600 lbs. The spa filled has 320 gallons or 2672 lbs. (8.35 lbs / gallon). If 7 people sit in my hot tub that is an additional 1050 lbs. (average 150 lbs). That is a total of 4,322 lbs. My engineer informed me that my current deck needed more support even before adding a spa or hot tub. I also hired carpenters to come out and make sure the job was done correctly. My engineer recommended to add an additional joist to each of the existing joist on the deck where the spa would be sitting. He also recommended to add additional Ledger board fasteners to the ledger. Our first step was to knock out the nailed in blocks so we could add the additional beams to the deck. We then added ledger board fasteners to the existing deck ledger. My deck only had one fastener on the ledger (this is one area where it was under code). We added an additional 4 fasteners to each area between the deck joists. Each fastener was 3 - 5/8" long. This was to help support the weight for the new spa.

We next placed a new joist butt up against the existing joist. We held the joist in place with a clamp before fastening them together. Adding joist will help distribute the weight for a addition of a spa. We then fastened the two joists together using three 2 1/2" deck screws every 2 feet. Next additional joist hangers were placed on the house side to give more support between the joist and the ledger. We finally nailed the blocks we took out back in place. The blocks needed to be modified due to the addition of the joist.Hot tubs and spas come in an array of shapes and sizes, and can be equipped with scores of accessories. Accordingly, they have a wide range of prices. Choosing the right spa depends on its intended use, how big your deck is, and what structural alterations will be required for your deck. In addition, you’ll need to know the cost of installation, day-to-day expenses, and how much you can expect to recoup on your investment should you sell your home.

It started with that icon of laid-back living, the redwood hot tub. Before long, fiberglass versions with circulating jets appeared called “spas.” Today the terms “hot tub” and “spa” are used interchangeably, but because most units are jetted, spa is the term more commonly used. Spas range in size from two-person models costing about $2,000, to 20-foot-long swim spas costing $18,000 or more. In between are those most popular for decks: 4- to 8-person models costing from $2,500 to $10,000.Choosing a spa can be challenging. You’ll need to select from a dazzling number of accessories, including cup holders, colored LED lights, iPod docks, stereo systems, pop-up TV screens, and even waterproof keyboards. “The gadgetry is there to catch your eye while shopping,” cautions Erich Johanson, an experienced spa installer in Olympia, Wash. He recommends choosing established manufacturers and narrowing your choice from there. “Look at the national brands and find one you like,” he says.

“Then chose a model that has the features you want.”His top recommendation is for “full-foam” insulation—a high-density, closed-cell polyurethane foam that fills the cavity between the fiberglass tub shell and the outer cabinet and helps reduce heat loss. In addition, full-foam insulation helps reduce noise and adds stability to the entire unit.Check installation costs as well. They’ll be dependent on the size of the spa and the ease of getting it where it needs to be. In some cases, limited access may require the use of a crane to lower the spa into place. For an 8-person spa, expect about $300 for delivery and setup.The safest—and most cost-effective—location for a spa is the lower level of a deck. A deck only a few steps above ground, if built to code, should be able to support 100 lbs per sq. ft.—a filled 8 x 8 spa at 6,000 lbs. works out to about 94 lbs per sq. ft., just within limits. Check your local codes for any restrictions governing the installation of a spa on a deck.

Even better is a reinforced concrete pad, a great option if you’re planning a new deck or intend to add on to an existing deck. A 4-inch slab will safely bear 115 lbs per sq. ft.If you want the tub on a deck more than a couple of feet above ground or on an upper level of a deck, things get more complicated. You’ll need to hire a structural engineer to provide specs for a site-specific framing structure to support the weight. Expect to pay an engineer $300 to $500 for these services. The necessary framing for a typical backyard deck may cost only a few hundred dollars, but expect to pay much more if your deck is a high-flying structure perched on a slope.Spas require a nearby source of electricity. Because water is involved, any electrical hookup for a spa must include ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection. This nifty device shuts down the system within milliseconds if it detects the tiniest change in current flow caused by a short circuit. Some spas come with an extension cord with a GFCI built in that can be plugged into a 110-volt, 20-amp circuit.

Larger units require at least one dedicated 220-volt, 50-amp circuit. In addition, there must be an emergency shutoff within sight of the spa, but not closer than 5 feet or farther than 50 feet. A new circuit and shutoff will cost about $800.Water access is simple; spas fill with an outdoor hose. The spa then heats and circulates the water. Insulated tub covers limit evaporation, but the tub will need occasional topping off. When it’s time to empty the unit, all spas have built-in hose bibs so you can drain the water.Getting in and out of a spa provides opportunities for mishaps. A handrail is a good idea for older—and younger—users. A cover with a lock is must if you have children.If you plan to build your spa into the deck, it may seem best to drop it into the deck so that the rim of the tub sits on the decking. Unfortunately, this makes it easy for people to fall in or step on the cover, and also complicates getting into the tub. The ideal arrangement is to set the spa partially into the deck so the rim is 17 to 24 inches above the decking.

That way, bathers can sit on the rim, swing their feet over, and enter the water.Hot water feels great, but needs to be indulged with caution. The Association of Pool & Spa Professionals recommends keeping the water temperature between 100°F and 102°F, with 104°F as a maximum. A safe soaking duration is 15 minutes. To keep the spa free of bacteria, you must be clean it regularly and add sanitizing chemicals.It costs as little 50¢ a day to run a spa. That amount can vary according to the amount of use, your local energy costs, the quality of insulation in your spa, and the quality of the cover. Covers typically come with spas, but consider upgrading to a higher efficiency type. The additional cost is modest and the better-insulated covers are often lighter, making them easier to remove.If you live in a region with a climate moderate enough for year-round use, a deck equipped with a spa should give you a slight edge in selling a home. John Tripp, an appraiser with Foundation Trust in San Jose, Calif., says that spas “normally are assets as long as they have been properly maintained and there is no evidence of leakage or deferred maintenance.”