(3) yards of outdoor fabric (4) yards of webbing Select three yards of heavy outdoor fabric. Outdoor fabrics are good for pets because it’s more likely to repel stains and withstand heavy wear. The print I chose satisfied a few conditions: it needed to be able to disguise mud, Golden Retriever fur, and not be overly feminine since it was going in a man’s car. In planning its execution, I decided on folding the three yards of fabric in half and sewing it into a sleeping bag-like form leaving on end open. We have plenty of old bath towels floating around our home, and I decided to use them to line and cushion the entire piece. I layered them in a way to create an almost completely even bed for the hammock. If you don’t have scrap towels around, consider buying a few new towels at a discount store where they are usually priced low. Alternatively, I like using thin memory foam mattresses as dog beds. You can usually source $20 XL twin-sized pieces and fold them to create a cushy pad.

Initially, it didn’t seem likely that three layers of towels would slide easily through our sewing machine, so I started by loosely hand stitching the layers together with orange embroidery thread. It wasn’t hard, but it took a long while and I wasn’t sure it would be strong enough. Eventually, my curiosity won over and I found myself testing the limits of my little Singer. Excitedly, my machine ate through the thick layers with ease. So, I stitched across the car hammock horizontally in four places. The unit has four adjustable points of attachment using parachute buckles (4 at $2/each) and webbing bought by the yard (4 yards total, about $1/yard). By attaching two to each end, the padded piece would hook to the four car headrests making this safety and dog comfort device literally, a hammock. I attached the webbing by sewing it in place to each end of the hammock, liberally spacing it as I went so that there was plenty of adjustment room. Installed, it was inviting and charming and sure to keep the dog safer and more comfortable.

Sign up for the Newsletter Privacy PolicyAbove is a rare glimpse of my handsome bigger dog Woodrow*, a chow mix whose fur sheds everywhere. It’s the kind of fur that seems to weave its way into everything, including car upholstery. Male Labrador Puppies For SaleThe last thing I want to do in the middle of  a long road trip with two pooches is to take a break to vacuum the back seat of my beloved Kia Optima. Hanging A Mirror Above A Console TableIf you ever travel with pets, or even messy kids, I recommend making your own back seat protector. Vintage Bird Duvet Cover ShamsEven with the most basic of sewing skills, which is totally the camp I fall in, you can sew this back seat protector in an afternoon. With this washable car accessory, you can make your dogs feel at home – even in the car.

*He’s scared of the noises my camera makes! 4.25 yds nylon strapping material, 1 inch wide 1 inch wide slide release buckle 3 packages of 3 inch double fold bias tape/quilt binding 2 yds – polar fleece that’s at least 54 inches wide 2 yds – 54 inch upholstery fabric Measure the back seat of your car for dimensions listed below. If you’re driving a 2006 Kia Optima like me, you can use my dimensions. Iron your upholstery fabric before beginning to remove any wrinkles. Cut your fabric so it meets your back seat’s dimensions. To make purchasing and cutting fabric easier, I stuck to two yards (72 inches) of fabric length. 54 inches is a standard width for fabric, so I decided to make my finished back seat cover 54 by 72 inches for simplicity’s sake. Remember when I said I’m no expert seamstress? Pin your fabric together, wrong sides facing each other. Sew a basting stitch all the way around to keep the large pieces of fabric in place when you sew.

Pin bias tape all the way around the edges of your fabric and sew it in place with a sewing machine, removing your pins as you go. Iron all of the bias tape to smooth it out. Cut your nylon strapping into the following lengths: 80 inches, 30 inches (2 pieces), 7 inches. Thread the 7 inch piece through the female end of the slide release buckle. Sew a square with an X through it near the buckle, as shown. Measure 25 inches (or the height of your back seat) from the shorter end of the rectangle of fabric, and mark it with a pin. Hand sew the raw end of the nylon strapping to the rectangle where you marked it, folding under the raw edges. Thread the 80 inch piece of nylon through the other end of the slide release buckle. Fold the end of the nylon nearest the buckle over twice and sew down. Fold over once the other end of the nylon and sew it to the fabric rectangle at the 25 inch mark using a box with an X through it. Measure the location of your back seat’s head rests.

Sew a 30 inch piece of nylon strapping to the rectangle in a horseshoe shape where it will be able to loop over the head rests to keep the back of the seat covered. You should sew each end of the horseshoe shape using the box with an X through it for maximum security.A DIY back seat protector to keep your ride clean and your pooches happy. Isn’t the bones and bandana fabric cute, by the way? Storm, unlike Woodrow, does not fear the sound of a camera shutter. Nor, apparently, does she fear the open road. This post is sponsored by Kia.Some dogs love to travel. And what better time to take a road trip than during the summer? There are a lot of great tips for traveling with your dog when in a car, and they always include keeping your dog safely in his seat — which is the one rule my dog has never been able to follow. Snickerdoodle has zig-zagged across the United States with me three times now, and we’re gearing up for a fourth trip. He loves going for rides, but even with frequent walk breaks, he is terrible at staying put while the car is in motion.

There is so much to see! So much to smell! So many ways he could get seriously injured! I tried putting him in his comfy, beloved dog carrier. He spent the whole drive whining and trying to dig his way out. Somehow he managed to get dangerously tangled up in it. Keeping him down on the floor? He climbed under my tiny car seat and accidentally disconnected some wiring. Did I mention I was driving? I was pretty excited, then, when I found out about car hammocks. They’re pretty much over-sized backseat covers that extend from the top of the backseat to the top of the front seat, making a big hammock in-between. Not only does this protect your car interior from hair, mud and upchucks, it limits your dog to a safe space that includes a sort of “safety net” over that dangerous between-the-seats zone. It’s great for older dogs, who may get easily stressed during long travel, or active dogs who refuse to stay in their seats (talking about you, Snickerdoodle!) or for any dog who suffers from carsickness.

Looking online, car hammocks tend to run anywhere from $50 to $100. So I figured I’d make my own. Your costs will vary depending on what you have on hand and where you purchase your supplies, but I was able to put together a hammock we both love for less than $20. Follow these steps to make your own: 1. Measure your car seats. The two basic measurements you need in order to start are the length of your backseat — either from one end of the bench to the other, or from one car door to the other, depending how much you’d prefer to cover — and what will be the hammock width, which is the distance from the top of your backseat to the top of your front seat. By “hammock width,” I don’t mean stretching the measuring tape straight across. You need to let the tape fall down the backseat, across the cushions and the leg space, sloping it back up to the top of the front seat — just like a hammock. You can make this as tight or as loose as you want, but plan carefully.

Too short and your dog will be swaying in the breeze (and possibly throwing up on your neck). Too long and he’ll topple into the leg space. 2. Decide where to place the straps. Once you have these measurements, you’ll need to figure out where to put the straps that will secure the hammock to the seats. I put straps on just one end of my hammock that attach to the head rests of the front seats. I didn’t need any straps for the back. Because my seats are collapsible, I just tucked the hammock in. But I might add extra straps later for some added security. 3. Measure the distance between the end of the hammock and the front seat’s headrest (or whatever you plan to attach the straps to). Measuring the distance between the proposed-end of the hammock and the head rests can get a little tricky, so make sure you do it a few times. (You can also measure again after you make the basic hammock, before putting the straps on, just in case.) Keep in mind the kind of straps you’re going to be using, as the width of the strap will make some difference in where it needs to be placed.

The materials you chose will differ depending on what’s available to you and how fancy you want to get. (I love projects you can make super easy or super complicated at whim; don’t you?) No matter what you choose, you can probably pick up at least some of the materials at a fabric store, your local thrift shop or a dollar store. Or use what you have at home. All you really need are two fabrics you like that are sturdy and easily washable. It’s better if the fabrics are at least a little different; for example, one fuzzy and one smooth fabric. This way you’re prepared for different situations. I wanted something lightweight, since it’s so hot where I live, so I picked up a couple of old fabric shower curtains at the local thrift store. One is rougher and holds up really well against mud and sand for days when we go hiking; the other is a pretty fabric that I think jazzes up the backseat. You could also use old sheets, tablecloths, canvas, denim… pick out whatever you like.

If you want to add some type of padding, you can use a thicker fabric (such as a fleece) on one side. Or you can line the space between your two fabrics with a thicker fabric, batting or some old towels — just know that if you go this route, you’re going to need to quilt it to keep the inside materials from shifting around. Straps for all of these methods can be made out of leftover fabric, or you can use ribbon or adjustable buckles bought at a fabric store or taken off an old backpack. I used a couple of my dog’s old nylon collars as straps, and that worked pretty well. 5. Prepare your fabrics. Make sure your fabrics are clean and ironed flat. I am horrible at the ironing part, but it really is important so your fabrics line up the way they’re supposed to. Then lay the fabrics on top of each other, with the front or “pretty” sides touching. 6. Measure out the size you need. Be sure to add at least 1/4 inch all around. When you sew the fabrics together, you’ll be using that space for the stitches.

7. Double check your measurements, and trim the fabrics. 8. Line your fabrics up and pin them together, all the way around. 9. Sew together three sides of the fabrics. If you have a sewing machine, you can finish this up in just a few minutes. Otherwise, it’s time to turn on a movie… 10. Carefully sew the fourth side together. Leave about 3 or 4 inches undone on one end. This will be the little pocket you use to finish it all off. 11. Flip your hammock right-side out. Do this by reaching inside that little hole, grabbing the other end of the fabric and pulling it out by feeding it through the hole. Go carefully so you don’t rip any stitches. 12. Hand sew the last couple inches shut. 13. Add the straps. I suggest using a zigzag stitch if you can, but mostly you just want to make sure it’s secure. Sew it through both layers of fabric for some added reinforcement. Hook your hammock into the car, plop the pup in the middle, and get ready for an adventure!