How Much Does It Cost To Refinish Floors Yourself

They say that hardwood floors are like a fine wine, getting better and better with age. While that’s true, it’s only true to a certain point. Over time, hardwood floors loose that luster—they become discolored, they get scratched, they cup and crown and warp. With proper care, hardwood floors can last up to 20 years before they need to be refinished. However, if your hardwoods are showing some battle scars or it’s simply time to freshen them up, here are some things you need to know when deciding whether to replace or refinish your hardwood floors. Refinishing your hardwood floors is a very drastic action to take. It’s very inconvenient and will require you to remove all the furnishings in all the rooms with floors that are to be refinished. And whether it’s from the dust or harsh chemicals in the air, you’ll likely end up staying in a motel or bunking with a relative while your floors are being refinished. Additionally, the task of refinishing your hardwood floors can’t happen overnight.

Sanding, staining, and sealing must all be done on separate days, and that’s assuming that it only takes one day for each step of the process. You’re looking at a minimum of three days and up to a week to refinish your hardwood floors. Before you undertake such a task, it’s important to be aware of exactly what you’re getting yourself into.
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If you have engineered hardwood floors made of layers of wood glued together, there’s very little margin for error because the top layer that will be sanded can only withstand light sanding. Hiring a contractor would likely be your best bet if your hardwoods are engineered. And if your floors are laminate, they can’t be refinished and your only option will be replacement. If you’re going to refinish your floors yourself, you’ll have to buy or rent an industrial sander—not like the small, circular sanders you use to build a birdhouse—as well as the stain and polyurethane, and those are just the most basic essentials. Many people choose to hire a contractor to refinish their floors rather than doing it themselves; in fact, you may see areas in your floor where the previous homeowner didn’t sand evenly and damaged the wood. With a contractor, you could pay as much as five dollars per square foot—or higher if you live in an apartment building without a service elevator—but you won’t have to worry about your floors looking anything less than beautiful when they’re finished.

With staining, it's often possible to dress up plain gray concrete for less than the cost of covering it up with carpeting, tile, or most types of high-end flooring materials. Your final cost will vary depending on the complexity of the stain application, surface prep requirements, the size of the job, the type of sealer used, and whether you do the work yourself or hire a staining professional. But no matter what you spend, you'll be investing in a floor treatment that lasts. Properly sealed and maintained stained concrete will last for decades and rarely needs replacement. Note: These estimated square foot prices are based on having the work done by a contractor, and may run higher or lower. For realistic price estimates, contact several contractors in your area. Photo: Colors on Concrete Basic Cost Range ($2.50 to $5.50 per square foot) An eye-catching, economical upgrade to plain, gray concrete. Basic one-coat application of stain with sealer (which includes floor cleaning prior to staining).

Photo: Kemiko Decorative Floor Finishes Mid Cost Range ($5.50 to $7.50 per square foot) More elaborate decorative effects. Use of two or more coloring methods. Scored or sawcut patterns incorporated. At this level, the competition is high-quality carpeting and relatively low-priced tile. Photo: Pacific Decorative Concrete Advanced Cost Range ($7.50 to $15 per square foot) An artistic blend of techniques, patterns, and coloring mediums. Advanced stain application using faux-finishing techniques, complex sawcut patterns, or stenciling. At this price point, you are comparing against wood flooring ($8-$10 per square foot) and a range of ceramic and quarry tiles ($10-$12 per square foot). Adding decorative sandblasting or engraving to the advanced stain application ($15+ per square foot). High-end stained floors are competitive with slate, terrazzo, and marble. Source: Bob Harris' Guide to Stained Concrete Interior Floors Generally, the project will cost less if you are staining new concrete that has not been sealed or previously covered with another flooring material.

Keep it simple by using just one stain color. You'll still be able to achieve multi-tonal effects because of the natural color variations inherent to concrete stain. Do all or part of the work yourself, such as removing existing floor coverings. For advanced staining work, you're usually better off hiring a skilled contractor and paying extra for their expertise and artistic eye (see “Can I Apply Stain Myself or Should I Hire a Proâ€). When comparing the cost of stained concrete with alternative flooring materials, such as carpet, tile, or hardwood, don't forget to factor in longevity and replacement costs.Looking to find flooring contractors in your area? Get free quotes » It's a thrill akin to finding buried treasure -- that moment when you rip up the dusty carpets of your newly purchased home and discover that (bingo!) there are hardwood floors underneath. Wooden floors are one of the most enduringly popular home decor features. Handsome, natural, and durable, they are also relatively easy to restore to their original beauty, even if they've seen their fair share of neglect.

Here are 11 frequently asked questions about the refinishing process.Q. How much does wood floor refinishing cost?A. Expenses of DIY refinishing include rental of a buffer or sander, sandpaper, and possibly chemical stripper, plus your finishing agent and sealant. Professional wood floor refinishing costs are calculated by the square foot.Q. Does preparing a hardwood floor for refinishing mean stripping it down to the bare wood?A. Assess the floor's condition. Are any scratches or nicks you see just surface flaws? If so, scuff-sanding with a buffer may be all that is needed to remove superficial signs of wear and prepare the floor for application of a polyurethane finish.Q. What are the advantages of scuff-sanding?A. Scuff-sanding is quick, easy, and inexpensive, compared to sanding down to the wood itself.Q. What equipment is needed for standard sanding?A. Renting a random orbital sander is best if you’re planning to refinish wood floors yourself. It will take more time than a drum sander, but you'll have greater control and minimize the possibility of marking up your flooring.

Q. Do nails in the wood need to be removed before refinishing?Hammer them down approximately one-quarter inch below the surface of the hardwood flooring before sanding. Use wood filler to cover them prior to finishing the whole floor. Q. What type of sandpaper should be used?A. Go over the floor with coarse-grit, changing your sanding disk once or twice as required. Then repeat the process with medium-grit sandpaper. You may wish to do a third sanding with a finer grit.Q. When is chemical stripping preferable to sanding?A. Chemical stripping is a practical choice when the floor wood to be refinished is in good shape. It will quickly remove the old finish, but won’t improve any imperfections in the wood itself. Q. What equipment is needed for chemical stripping?A. In addition to the stripper, you’ll need a putty knife, denatured alcohol, steel wool, sandpaper and possibly turpentine or paint remover. Rubber gloves and goggles to protect your skin and eyes are a must. Q. Which types of wood floor finish are available?

A. There are 4 main types for residential purposes: i) Surface finishes, such as stains, are durable and low maintenance. However, they do emit an odor after application. Depending on the variety, they take anywhere from 2-8 hours to dry.ii) Waxes soak into the wood for a durable protective finish. However, they have a low luster and are vulnerable to water spotting.iii) UV cured finishes are super-quick-drying, water based finishes, which are "cured" with ultraviolet light. These are ideal if you'd like to use the floors immediately.iv) Finishing oils are mixtures of natural oils (for example, tung) with additional ingredients to facilitate a fast-drying, durable surface. Q. Is sealing necessary after you've applied the finish to your hardwood floors?A. It depends on the floor. Usually it is necessary only with floors that absorb stain unevenly. Q. How long does it take to refinish a wood floor? A. The time frame varies according to how many rooms you are doing and what type of finish you’re using.