WoodVery good choices: teak, eucalyptus, and cedar. (No pine, oak, or natural wicker, which deteriorate outdoors.) Teak, a rain forest wood, is the most expensive (five-piece sets run from $950 to $2,700). It lasts up to 100 years (really!) and weathers from brown to silvery gray — so if you prefer the original color, apply teak protector once a year, or twice in humid climates. Responsibly harvested teak comes with a Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) stamp. Eucalyptus sets (which should also carry the FSC stamp) can last almost as long as teak if they are treated annually with a water-based acrylic sealant — and they're less expensive (between $325 and $1,000). Cedar sets ($600 to $1,000) last about 20 years and need an annual coating of protective oil. Look for sturdy joinery: dovetail or mortise and tenon joints, dowels and pegs, and stainless steel screws. Brass screws should come with an antirust coating. Never buy furniture that's glued or stapled.MetalTwo smart options: wrought iron and aluminum.

Most iron furniture isn't really wrought (hammered over a fire); Sets can be expensive (between $600 and $2,300). You get sturdy stuff in a range of styles, from Italian-villa filigree to sleekly modern. Buy only wrought iron that's powder-coated — sprayed with ground pigment and resin that protect it from rust. Even then, any scratches can rust; immediately sand and apply touch-up paint (available from manufacturers and home-improvement stores). Aluminum patio sets, which cost about the same as wrought iron ones, are completely rust-resistant and so light that they're easy to move. Cast aluminum can look as ornate as wrought iron. Stainless, galvanized, and powder-coated steel sets are also good choices; they're durable and easy-care, and they can be moderately priced (starting at about $300). For safety reasons, a glass tabletop on any steel set should be tempered glass.SyntheticsPlastic sets are the most affordable (starting at $50). They're easy to stack and store, and virtually indestructible.

The downside: Plastic is not as attractive or comfortable as other materials (the more expensive the set, the better the seating), and white plastic shows scuffs and discolorations. Another synthetic choice to consider: all-weather wicker, made of plastic resin. Nearly identical to natural wicker, it's easy to clean (you just spray it with a hose), reasonably priced (sets start at $600), and weather-resistant. Just make sure the frames are constructed from galvanized, stainless, or powder-coated steel or from rust-resistant aluminum.Cushions and UmbrellasBuy cushions with tags declaring them UV- and weather-resistant. For mildew: Scrub with a solution of one cup bleach and a squirt of detergent per gallon of water. Otherwise, whenever cushions look dirty, vacuum and sponge-clean with warm water and mild detergent. Get an outdoor umbrella that is made of Sunbrella — a mildew-resistant acrylic fabric with a high UV rating — and comes with at least two ventilation slits for windproofing.

Hose umbrella once a month. Every two or three years, wash with a mild soap (like Woolite) and lukewarm water; Ideally, patio sets should be stored in a garage, shed, or basement when winter arrives. If you don't have room, cover the furniture with a heavy-duty vinyl all-weather tarp.Exquisite Shower Head PartsReady to start shopping? Fish Farms For Sale New ZealandCheck out our favorite outdoor furniture.Ivory Curtains White Walls The Easiest Way to Start Composting This Incredible Sealed Bottle Garden Hasn't Been Watered in 44 Years The Ice Cube Trick That Will Save Your Houseplants Your 3-Step Guide to Building a Raised Garden Bed The Best Flowers to Plant for Your Astrological Sign 14 Easy Landscaping Ideas for Your Front Yard

How to Make a Carnivorous Bog Planter 6 Ways to Revive a Nearly Dead Houseplant How to Make a Mounted Driftwood Planter Get Your Deck Ready for Summer With a Fresh Coat of StainWicker porch furniture is noted for its durability, but use, inadequate care and weather eventually take their toll. Although valuable antique pieces should be refurbished by professionals, ordinary wicker furniture can be refreshed and often repaired by amateurs.The term wicker refers to a method of construction, not to a particular material.Wicker furniture is made by weaving strands of fibers around a frame of thick stems, vines or plant stalks. The fibers used might be rattan, raffia or buri (all varieties of palm); various species of reed; or a synthetic material called fiber rush, which consists of twisted paper.Wicker in good condition can be maintained by regular vacuuming. Wipe it afterward with a cloth dipped in mild household detergent that is safe for woodwork.Scrubbing with a bristle brush dipped in the same solution will remove grime from stubborn areas.

A spray-on cleaner can also be used.When exposed to sunlight for extended periods, wicker dries out, causing the fibers to become brittle and sometimes split.Spraying the piece with water and allowing it to dry in the shade is the accepted way to avoid cracking. But to avoid damaging fibers and glue joints, this should be done only when necessary, at most once or twice a year.Humidity, when there is no direct sunlight, can foster mildew on wicker.Stains and odor caused by this fungus can be removed by washing the piece with a solution of one-quarter cup household laundry bleach to one quart of water, or by using a commercial mildew remover (available at hardware stores and many supermarkets) that is safe for wood.This treatment can lighten some wicker fibers, so you might have to wash the entire piece to keep its color uniform. When using bleach or mildew remover, wear goggles and rubber gloves with cuffs.Mildewed cushions should be washed or professionally cleaned, and aired frequently in sunlight to prevent mildew from recurring.

When wicker with a clear finish (lacquer, shellac or varnish) becomes dull, you can usually restore its luster by rubbing with a soft cloth dampened with furniture polish or lemon oil.Minor scratches can be disguised by rubbing with a wax-stick scratch remover, available at home centers and some furniture stores.Unfinished wicker needs protection from humidity and should be kept indoors; over the years, shrinking and swelling of fibers will shorten the lifespan of a piece.But it can be prepared for outdoor use without sacrificing its unfinished appearance by brushing it with penetrating waterproofing sealer. The sealer will darken the fibers but not coat them with a shiny glaze. To get an idea of the effect, dampen an area of unfinished fiber with water. Sealer will produce approximately the same results.Worn spots in clear-finished lacquer can be touched up with lacquer or varnish, either sprayed on or applied with a small paintbrush, to avoid clogging the weave. Painted wicker can be treated the same way, but if many spots require attention, you may have to repaint the entire piece to camouflage the touch-ups.

To refinish or repaint wicker, first clean it thoroughly. Then brush on a liquid sanding preparation (sold in paint or hardware stores), which will remove grease and oil from the surface and soften the existing finish to enhance bonding with the new.If the piece is badly clogged with old finish or paint, have it stripped by a company that specializes in wicker. Stripping weakens the fibers and makes it brittle, so this should not be done often, and only by an expert.If you are applying the same finish or paint color, spray on two light coats of clear finish or enamel paint, allowing ample drying time between coats. When applying paint of a different color, first spray on two light coats of primer, then apply enamel.Spraying should be done outdoors because the vapors are dangerous; even then, wearing a face mask is recommended.Choose a dry, windless day for best results. Spread a dropcloth on the ground, and hang another from a clothesline as a backdrop, or place the piece in a large cardboard box.

Many wicker repairs can be made easily. To repair loose wrapping, first remove the carpet tack (if present) that holds the end in place. plete the wrapping and tack it down. Insert the point of the tack between the wrappings so the head anchors the fibers without splitting them. Wipe away excess glue with a damp cloth.If strands of wrapping or weaving are broken or missing, they can be replaced with similar material, available from craft-supply stores. To increase pliability, all fibers except fiber rush can be soaked up to a half hour in water. However, soaking swells some fibers, making them difficult to thread through tight places.Wrapping must be soaked and worked wet, and not just for pliability. It will shrink as it dries, producing a tight fit.With woven furniture, first try making repairs using dry fiber. To make the ends of fibers easier to insert, sharpen their ends with a pocket knife.To repair a broken strand of weaving, clip the damaged portion free on the back or underside of the piece, where a replacement strand can be started and finished discreetly.