Does tile backer board lap over the bathtub lip, or sit on top of it? It’s a question that’s puzzled first-time bathroom remodelers for years. This article explains the correct method. Tiling Around a Tub Overview Mark the Layout Lines Start by measuring the height of the back wall from the lip of the tub to the top of the area to be tiled. Divide the dimension in half and make a mark there. Check if you need to adjust this mark to avoid laying slivers of tile at the top and bottom. Calculate how many tiles it takes to reach from the center mark down to the tub. If you end up with less than half a tile at the tub, adjust the mark downward by the height of this partial tile so you end up with a full tile at the bottom and a larger cut tile at the top. Using a level, draw a horizontal line across the wall at this mark. Next, measure the width of the back wall horizontally. Divide this dimension in half and draw a plumb line down the center of the wall. If this leaves tile slivers on both sides, adjust the line right or left as necessary.

Trowel On the Tile Mastic Start at the intersection of the two layout lines and spread a thick layer of tile mastic onto one quadrant of the wall with the smooth edge of a trowel. Tile mastic has a working window of about 20 minutes, so apply it to an area no larger than 2 or 3 square feet. Use the notched edge of the trowel to rake out the mastic and make a series of deep ridges. Tip: If the mastic starts to lose its tackiness, or "skin over," scrape the wall clean and apply fresh mastic. Set the first tile at the intersection of the two layout lines. Press the tile tight to the wall, making sure its edges are flush with both the horizontal and vertical lines. Continue setting tiles in both directions along the two lines, working out toward the end wall and down to the tub in a stepped pattern. Set only full tiles in each course. Many tiles have small nubs on the edges to keep them evenly spaced at the proper width for grout. If your tiles aren't self-spacing, use plastic spacers to maintain consistent joints.

Tip: Make sure to leave space for caulk between the bottom course of tile and the tub.Bi Fold Doors In Uk Cut Tile to FitCost Of Waxing Wood Floors Where the tiles need to be cut to fit against a corner or ceiling, hold a full tile in place and mark where it overlaps the last full tile already on the wall.Fish Oil Benefits Weight Loss Dosage Place the tile to be trimmed on the tile cutter so the mark lines up with the cutting wheel. Slide the cutter's adjustable fence against the edge of the tile so that you can cut the remaining tiles without marking each one. With slight downward pressure, pull the cutting wheel across the face of the tile to score the glaze. Do not score the tile twice. Press down on the handle to snap the tile in two.

Lay tiles with their cut edges against the corner or ceiling. Drill for Tub or Shower Supply Pipe Finish setting the tiles in the other quadrants of the back wall. Extend the horizontal layout line to the end walls, draw the plumb lines, then set the tiles for these walls using the same procedure as above. At protruding fixtures, such as the tub and shower supply pipes or the mixer valves, you'll have to use tile nippers to carefully create notches in several tiles to fit them around the rough plumbing. Or, if the pipe or valve body falls within a single tile, drill a hole with a diamond-grit hole saw. Nipping Tiles To Fit Around Fixtures Once the hole is cut out, slide the tile over the pipe (or position it next to the protruding plumbing) and press it into the mastic. Complete each end wall by installing rounded-end bullnose tile along the edges. Allow the mastic to cure overnight. Next, pour a quart of fortified unsanded tile grout into a bucket.

Mix in just enough water or latex additive (which strengthens grout) to create a mayonnaiselike consistency. Place some grout on a rubber trowel and smear it diagonally across the tiled surface, forcing it deep into every joint. Apply grout to all three walls in this manner. Let the grout cure for 15 to 20 minutes, then wipe the tiles with a large damp sponge held flat against the wall. Rinse the sponge often in clean water. The next day, buff the remaining grout haze off the tiles with a clean, dry cloth. Finally, use siliconized acrylic caulk that matches your grout color to fill the joint between the tub and first course of tile. Sign up or log in to customize your list. Here's how it works: Anybody can ask a question The best answers are voted up and rise to the top I'm installing a new bath tub and shower. I've removed the old tile down to the studs. Should the backer board be in front of or behind the tub flange? I put it on the rear tub wall from floor to ceiling at first, but I can easily remove it if it should go OVER the tub flange.

bathroom tile bathtub tiling backer-board Let's look at the three pictures above. #1 - This is probably the most common install. You cement board is on the same plane as the flange. It is thicker so it ends up hanging over. Tip - If you are using cement board by itself I would strongly suggest using 1/2 inch. Also I am a strong supporter of hardibacker since it doesn't allow water through or hold water. Durarock is a great product but I use hardibacker in wet areas. #2 - Some people are going to look at this and say never do it. Well it is done. First is the tub tub deck isn't exactly flat. Some bow towards the middle. This allows the backer board to almost sit it on some spots and maybe be 1/4-1/2 inch up in others. The second is smaller tiles. If you are going small glass mosaic all the way up not only should you do this but it is a must. If you stagger the backer the bottom tiles could move if hit near their bottoms (especially if you are caulking the deck to tile transition).

Tip - In a lot of my tub surround installs I start with 1/4" drywall, plastic sheet (moisture barrier) then 1/4 hardiboard. This is a fast install, allows you to get something like picture #2 minus the furring strips (which are not fast), the 1/4 inch backer is much easier to get screws in right, and with a total of a half inch you can meet the rest of the room. I read about this install over at the johnbridge forums probably 8-9 years ago and have done at least 20 this way without one issue (2 in my home). #3 - Same deal as the first picture but with a goofy flange. Again you could use furring strip or drywall. Tip - Once you fur out the back or the front of your tub you have a dilemma. How do I meet up with the rest of the room. Let's first of all say you need to fur out a 1/2 inch. Wow if you fur out and put up 1/2 inch backer you are out an inch. So that is why I say to keep the drywall+backer method in your back pocket. You can go 1/2 inch drywall then 1/4 inch backer.

Also how do you meet up with the rest of the room? Well if it is a small bathroom I have double layered drywall along a wall. This is very easy to do and maybe $20 in materials vs furring out the whole wall - which is harder to match things up. An alternative in this case is to use 5/8 for the rest of your room and transition under tile work. Very easy to build up 1/8 inch using extra thinset. If you need to push out the install add furring strips or drywall. Staple moisture barrier (plastic sheathing) to the studs (or furring strips or drywall). The plastic should go a few inches into tub deck and above your highest backer board. It if fine to take it to the ceiling too. Screw in backer board using roofing nails and approved screws. First every piece should have 6-8 screws. They are a pain to get flush so use roofing nails for the rest (need at least 1 1/4 inch). Put up your alkali resistant mesh tape on all backer to backer seams (gray mesh sold near backer boards at the big box).

If it doesn't say alkali resistant it isn't so don't buy the drywall mesh. I strongly suggest that you hide backer to drywall transitions under tile. When I do a normal tub surround I buy 4 pieces of backer. One goes up vertical on each side (5 feet), one horizontal on the back, and another cut at 2 feet horizontal so that we have 5 feet above tub deck all the way around. Drywall above that . I even do the drywall if tiling to the ceiling. Then the tile is going to at least 5 1/2 feet above the deck and 3 1/2 feet from the wall. No transitions for me. First step of tiling day is to mix thinset a little on the soft side. Go over the joints that have your mesh tape and fill them in. Plan your tiling pattern. If you have to make cuts, hide them in the corner. Plan to never cut your tiles height-wise - just tile a little higher (or lower). Start at the bottom. With bigger tiles you may need to start at the second row and have them sit on a strip until the thinset is strong enough to not sag.

Make sure your bottom row is 1/8 inch from tub deck. Note that on curved tub deck you might have to be 1/16 of an inch on some parts and much bigger on others. After you are done tiling cut the plastic right at the tile level all the way around. Push plastic under tile gap. With the new cheap plastic tub you pretty much have to caulk the deck to tile transition. For heavier more solid tubs you can grout this area. I like grouting the bottom because you can always go over it with caulk in the future. People will say to never grout because it will crack. As I mention above it depends on the type of tub. Caulk your corners and caulk the top area of tile. The backer should go OVER the flange, for better water drainage. Because the backer board tends to bow out when 'lipped' over the tub flange, you should: Install shims on the studs to 'pad out' the backer so that it just clears the tub flange and overhangs it a bit (but doesn't 'land' on the rim of the tub) but leaves a 1/4 to 3/8 inch gap to the tub.