Browse our range of carpets. Luxury vinyl flooring collections Choose from a wide range of laminate floors Get your carpet measurements Check out our latest special offers Carpets for landlords and letting agents Free Measuring And Estimating Quality carpets and flooring for your home Our huge carpet stock changes almost daily. A visit to our spacious Chester carpet showroom is highly recommended where we can arrange free measuring and fitting for your home. Easy to find with FREE parking Our well-stocked showroom is just off Sealand Road, close to Tesco and Aldi. See our Google map for directions. At Carpet Clearance Centre in Chester we stock a huge range of high quality flooring including vinyl, laminate flooring, rugs and carpets at prices way below other carpet retailers in Chester. We are an independently owned business that has been serving our satisfied customers for many years. Most of our customers choose us because a friend or a family member has recommended us.

They tell us that they are not only attracted by our hugely competitive prices, but by the high level of customer service and commitment that only a local business can offer. Free carpet measuring and free carpet fitting We offer plenty of free advice on measuring if you would like to give yourself a rough estimate for budgeting, but our free carpet measuring service will ensure you buy the right amount of carpet – whatever the shape of your rooms. Of course carpet fitting is a skill and our expert team of fitters will fit your new carpet to the highest possible standard – completely free of charge. Right now in addition to our low carpet prices, free measuring and free fitting we also include free underlay, free grippers and free plates. Find out more in the latest video from Carpet Clearance Centre owner, Dave Bellis. Check out a sample of our flooring ranges, try our handy DIY carpet measuring guide or see how you can find your way to our carpet showroom on Bumpers Lane in Chester.

*Based in Buckinghamshire, covering the London boroughs of Harrow, & Ealing* Welcome to ADJ Flooring - the Carpet Store at your door! We offer unbeatable value with 1000's of carpets in stock as well as wood flooring, laminates and vinyls. All are available for delivery or fitting the very next day!Used Furniture For Sale In Vermont 15% Discount for Senoir Citizens!Retro Table Legs For Sale Can't get to us? Purple Blue And Green ComforterOur shop at home service enables you to chose your flooring in the comfort of your own home with a hassle free, no obligation quote. Worried about your furniture? Don't worry, we have that covered too! If you are unable to move items in your home, our team of friendly fitters can do this for you and put all items back in their original place.

FREE SHOP AT HOME SERVICE Here at ADJ Flooring we have 1000's of carpets in stock ready for next day delivery! Our Shop at Home is also free so just give us a call - unbeatable prices guaranteed! All types of wood flooring available in stock - call us to arange a free quotation! Unbeatable prices, next day delivery too! At ADJ Flooring we won't be beaten on price on our huge range of laminate flooring! Free Estimates, Free Fitting! Try our Free Shop at Home service! We have a huge range of vinyl flooring in stock - just give us a call to arrange a no obligation quote! We have a full range of non slip flooring suitable for the bathroom, kitchen etc Just call us to arrange for a free, no obligation quotation.....This savvy guide will teach you how to install laminate flooring like a boss. Print this out and follow it alongside the manufacturer’s installation guidelines you received with your new batch of laminate floor.Before getting caveman with your laminate flooring installation you must allow the planks to acclimate in the room for at least 72 hours.

This is because laminate flooring can expand and contract according to humidity levels in the room. The last thing you want is for the flooring to significantly expand or contract after it has been installed. This could cause the floor boards to separate or buckle. Use the acclimation time to unpack the planks and inspect the product. Look for defects such as chipping, splitting, warping or broken tongues and grooves. It is always savvy to order 5 to 10% more than your required square footage to account for damaged boards, waste and spares for future repairs. Top Tip – use the acclimation period to mix up planks from different boxes to give you the best visual effect, e.g. if you’re using 10 boxes, spread the contents of each box randomly over 5 separate stacks. Rip out the old floor – whether it be carpet, tiles or hard wood planks you need to get to the bare subfloor. With the old floor ripped up, use the spirit level or a straight edge plank to make sure the subfloor is level.

Any high or low spots will cause unnecessary stress to the floor boards and cause potential damage so you’ll need to sort those out. For a floating floor (a floor that doesn’t need to be nailed or glued like laminate flooring), any height difference should not be higher than a quarter inch more over any eight foot span of floor. If the floor needs levelling you can apply a self levelling thin set mortar to fill in those low spots. With the floor torn up and the place looking like a ghetto this is the best time to get any painting or other work done so you don’t need to worry about making a mess. The wife would certainly approve. There are two types of subfloor – concrete and wood. If your subfloor is concrete then you’ll need a moisture barrier. Moisture barriers prevent any moisture in the concrete subfloor from penetrating your new laminate flooring. If moisture corrupts the core-board it will warp the planks over time. Vacuum the floor to remove grit and dirt then lay down the moisture barrier ensuring that each row overlaps, it covers every corner of the floor and is held together with duct tape.

If your laminate flooring planks don’t come with pre-attached underlay you may want to lay a separate underlay before installing your laminate flooring. This will reduce the noise of foot fall penetrating to the floors below. Unlike the moisture barrier, when you lay underlay DO NOT overlap each row when you duct tape them together. Just make sure each row is tight and flush. It’s time to commence the installation! Before you begin make sure you look over the manufacturer’s installation instructions to familiarise yourself with the steps I’ll be going over in this guide. For aesthetic purposes it’s best to lay the boards in the same direction as the longest straight wall. If however you have matching flooring in a next door room it is better to lay them in the same direction. For square rooms lay the boards in the direction of incoming light. Once you’ve decided on the direction of the flooring you should start from the left corner of one of the walls you choose.

First make sure the expansion gap spacers are in place along the starting wall. Then measure the width of the room accounting for expansion spacers on either side. You can simply measure the width of the room and subtract the gap the expansion spacers create on either side. Generally expansion gaps are about a quarter of an inch. So many installation guides on the internet forget to mention the importance of making sure you trim the first and last row of planks so they will be the same width. This way you avoid the terrible squeezed in look which can easily happen if you haven’t measured right from the start and the last row ends up being just a couple of centimeters wide. Now that you’ve measured the width of the room you can calculate how much you need to trim evenly off the first and last row. Use a saw (preferably a circular saw or miter saw) and trim the first row. Make sure you trim the tongue side and not the groove side, because the groove side should be the side facing out to the room when you lay the first row.

Now that the boards for the first row have been cut to size you can begin piecing together the first two rows. Do this about two feet away from the starting wall from the left to the right. Two important things to remember when laying the floor: As a rule you never want the seams of adjacent boards to be less than 8 inches apart (I recommend 12 inches for a better look). To cut the flooring place the plank on its face (sunny side down) to reduce chipping and use a saw blade. A) Enter the tongue of the long side of row two into the groove of row one. B) Use a slight angle and press downwards until the joint locks C) Attach the next piece of row one, join the tongue and groove of the short side at an angle and press down. Make sure the planks are perfectly aligned. D) Add the second piece of row two. Enter the tongue into the long side of the groove, slide the plank to align the end joint, rotate downwards and lock the joint. Make sure there are no gaps and no raised edges.

Continue until the first two rows are assembled. Top Tip: After installing the first two planks of each row place a weight or a carton of flooring on top of the first plank of each row to hold it in place Once the first two rows are assembled slide them flush against the starting wall maintaining the quarter inch expansion gap using spacers. continue installing the rest of the floor! It’s highly unlikely that you’re not going to face any obstructions like pipes or cabinets when laying laminate flooring. Use a jig saw to cut the flooring to fit and make sure you include the expansion gap around any obstacles you need to work around. When negotiating a toilet or tub make sure you apply a silicon sealant to form a water tight seal, otherwise water could get in an warp your laminate floor. If you read my guide on how to clean laminate floors you’ll learn why it’s so important to avoid water like the plague. If water corrupts the HDF core-board then its only a matter of time before the flooring will start to warp and will need replacing.

When you get to the last row you will need to cut your board length wise to make it fit. You should ensure you still allow for your expansion spacer (measure the distance between the wall and the last installed row), then subtract the expansion gap – this is the width for the last row. When marking the cut line do not measure from the tongue (but the edge) then cut the plank along the line. If needed you can use a pull bar to insert the last row because it can often be a little awkward. It’s kind of like using a shoe horn. Last step is to attach the baseboards to the wall, NOT the floor. Moulding should never be attached to the laminate floor because the flooring still needs to expand and contract and won’t be able to do that if there’s a big nail or wood glue holding it in place. So for baseboards simply cut to size with a jig saw and nail to nail the wall. This guide includes everything you need to know to install laminate flooring like a boss. All I haven’t included is precise instructions on how to add other moulding pieces such as transition bars and stair noses.