Since I'm in the process of giving a little makeover to my master bathroom, I knew the first thing that had to change was the mirror. I've been wanting to do this for some time now, but when I priced it out with some nice thick molding, it ended up being like $40 or $50. Too much for my little budget :) So I never got around to doing it. I could have done the 1x4 way like how I did it in my guest bathroom, but that was more 'rustic'. And I just wanted clean lines for my master bath. Then I realized that I didn't like all the fancy molding more than I liked just plain boards :) So why not just do plain boards?? At under 70 cents a foot, it's a good deal. Especially when I had 19 feet to go with. I decided to buy some 1x6 mdf that you can find right by the molding. I love it because it's so thick and substantial. My mirror measured at 74"x37". You can buy these by different lengths, so I just bought 2 of the ten footers. Home Depot and Lowes both have places where you can cut the molding, so if you have your measurements, you can cut them there.

They even have a miter box if you want to do your miter cuts there too :) Here's how you do it: So, first paint the molding. These ones were already white, but it's just primed, so I just gave them a couple coats of some top coat. For the back, paint about a quarter of the side that would be in the inside of the mirror since you'll be able to see it's reflection just a bit when its finally on the mirror. Buy Cheap Drapery FabricThe painted side will be your shorter side once you miter cut it.Indoor Herb Garden Kit With Light Once all the paint is dry, send it through your miter box or miter saw at a 45 degree angle for each side. Hot Springs Classic Hot Tub SpecificationsMaking sure, once again, that the painting backside edge is the shorter edge.

Your cuts should be the same on each board and one side should be a cut at this angle \ and the other should be a cut at this angle /. So your board should look like this \________/ but with a top edge :) and that bottom edge is your painted backside edge. Now with the boards cut and ready to go, take some waterproof silicone and run some along the none painted part of the backside of each piece. Place the bottom piece first, secure with some painters tape. Then the side pieces next. And then the top piece. The best way to make sure these are all aligned and straight is to follow the outside edge of the mirror itself. The outside edge of the molding should be flush with the edge of the mirror. This dries pretty quickly, but I usually won't take off the tape for a couple of hours or so. For the edges, if you cut your cuts perfect, you shouldn't have to fill them in, all you need to do is maybe take a quick paint brush to it. But if the edges aren't perfect, just get some wood filler, fill in the gap, dry, sand, and paint.

I can't believe the difference this made in my bathroom. (don't mind the lovely hardwater stains all over the counter and faucet :) ). On that note, I'm thinking I would love some nice new shiny silver/chrome faucets and maybe not so dark of countertops :) It is so much brighter in here now. And it finally feels finished. I've been living in a complete non-decorated space for 4 years now. You would think that this would be the first bathroom I would 'freshen' up but it's the last :( I guess it's just so daunting. And it gets dirty really quick so maybe I think it's all for not. But....maybe...just maybe...with it all decorated now, it'll stay clean :) So, here's the before of the bathroom mirror. very long...and boring :) And the counter...well I won't get into the counter mess lol I can't get over how nice and bright it is in here now, especially with the new blinds and curtains. It was always so so dismal in here before. You have no idea. It was gross too :) I never used the bathtub, so that just got dirty way to quick, full of dust and grimy dust.

The worst kind :) This is with the lights off and blinds open just a bit. I can't wait to get ready in here now :) Before, it was like...in and out. Get your business done and leave. It's amazing what little changes can do. So the total cost of this mirror project? It would be super cheap if your mirror was a fraction of this size, once again, this is over six feet long. This posted is sponsored by: (click to go out check out there inventory! Really beautiful stuff ) Products You May LikeIt looks like the page you are looking for either no longer exists or has moved to a new location. Please visit our home page to start your journey again. is an online database that categorizes links alphabetically to resources found at other woodworking web sites. Founded in 1998, information is hand picked and new woodworking information is added every day. So if you are frustrated There is no cost to use the database. Registering is not required. should be able to browse the database and click through the links.

considering the fact there are so many browsers out there being used, this site's software might not allow some visitors to browse, it all depends on the Internet traffic, and your browser's compatibility. The online database is primarily four main sections, the Index of Links, the Free Woodworking Plans, the International Distribution Center for woodworking plans and the Buy It Then Build It section. The top of the database starts here.Using 3d Molding Polylines The information in this article applies to: I would like to create a custom frame what tool should I use? The 3D Molding Polyline tool is much like the normal Molding Polyline tool but more flexible. A molding polyline must be drawn in plan view, so one advantage of 3D molding polylines is that you can draw them in elevation view and create vertical moldings. Another advantage of 3D molding polylines is that they do not have to be coplanar, meaning that a given edge can go in any direction in all three dimensions.

The following image illustrates three objects; each derived from a similar shape using a polyline solid (left), a molding polyline (center), and a 3D molding polyline (right): In this article an oblong mirror with frame will be created. To create the mirror Click 3D> Create Orthographic View> Cross Section/Elevation  then click and drag towards the wall that will have the mirror. From the menu click Build> Primitive> Polyline Solid . Click and drag to create a rectangle. In this example the rectangle is 2' by 4' With the Polyline Solid selected click Open Object . In the Polyline Solid Specification dialog, on the General panel, set the thickness to 1/4" On the Materials panel select the Polyline Solid sub component and then click Library Material. Browse to or search for a mirror material.  Then Click OK to select the material. Click OK again on the Polyline Solid Specification to close that dialog. To shape the mirror With the polyline solid still selected, click on the upper edge to make this the active edge.

The edge of a polyline based object that has the biggest edit handle is the active side. All other sides will have smaller edit handles. Click the Change Line/Arc tool to convert that upper edge to an arc. Next click the Make Arc Tangent tool to make that arc tangent to the side edges. Click OK on the Radius of Tangent Arc dialog. Repeat steps 2 -4 for the lower edge. To create the 3D molding polyline frame Using the Select Objects  tool select the polyline solid. Then, on the Edit Toolbar click Copy and Paste in Place . With the new polyline still selected click Convert to Plain Polyline . With the Plain Polyline selected click Convert Polyline . In the Convert Polyline dialog choose 3D Molding Polyline and Click OK. In the 3D Molding Polyline Specification dialog which opens next, click on the Moldings panel. A default square molding is already chosen. Click Replace and browse to a more appropriate molding. In this example, the CA-24 chair rail profile is used.