Bathtub spouts can go bad in three ways: First, the diverter can wear out so it no longer blocks the water flow and sends water to the shower head. Second, the threads inside the spout can crack or corrode where the spout screws onto the pipe. Water can then trickle along the pipe and drip inside the wall. Finally, the spout's finish can flake off or corrode. Replacement is the solution to any of these problems. A new spout ($10 to $20) and everything else you might need are available at hardware stores and home centers. But before you buy a new spout, determine what type you need. First look under the spout. If you see a setscrew (Photo A), you have a “slip-on” spout. The setscrew might be smaller and harder to see than the one shown here; you may need a flashlight to spot it. Replacing a slip-on spout is easy: Just loosen the setscrew (usually with a hex wrench) and pull the spout off the copper pipe that protrudes from the wall. Twist the spout as you pull and be gentle so you don’t loosen any pipe connections inside the wall.

Then slide on the new spout and tighten the setscrew. If the spout doesn't have a setscrew, it's a screw-on spout (Photos B and C). Twist the old spout counterclockwise to remove it. If the pipe that protrudes from the wall is copper with a threaded fitting (Photo B), simply cut off the fitting with a tubing cutter ($10) and install a new slip-on spout (Photo A). If the pipe coming out of the wall is steel (Photo C), you need a new screw-on spout. Ideally, the new spout will fit perfectly onto the old pipe. But there's a good chance that the pipe protrudes too far or not far enough. There's also a chance that the threads are too corroded for you to screw on a new spout. Either way, you'll have to remove the old pipe (Photo 1) and screw in a new pipe of the correct length (Photo 2). Short sections of threaded pipe (called “nipples”) are usually available in 1-in. increments. They cost less than $2 each, so buy a couple of different lengths and save yourself a trip back to the store.

Wondering how to replace a shower valve when valve access is bad or nonexistent, when the old pipes are galvanized steel, and when you want to go from a two-handle to one handle valve with temperature-balancing and anti-scald features? We show you how to solve these common problems. Wondering how to replace a shower valve when valve access is bad or nonexistent, when the old pipes are galvanized steel, and when you want to go from a two-handle to one handle valve with temperature-balancing and anti-scald features? Solar Indoor Lights Uk Overview: 3 common shower valve replacement problemsHow Much To Tip Movers Ct If your bath or shower faucet drips, you can fix itWindow Treatments For Sliding Glass Doors Blog with a few inexpensive replacement parts.

the spout and handles are worn, you can change them out, too.) But if it’s a new style you’re after or features like preset temperatures or anti-scald protection, it’s time for replacement. new shower faucet is a straightforward process of connecting the new valve to the old pipes. need are the manufacturer’s instructions and some basicBut it isn’t that easy very often. This article will focus on three complications that installation manuals and plumbing books ignore. There’s no access to the inside of the wall. The old pipes are galvanized steel. You want to replace a two-handle faucet with a single-handle Problem 1: No access panel To replace the faucet, you have to workSome homes have a removable panel in the next room have an access panel, you might be able to replace the faucet by cutting a hole in the shower surround (Problem 3 below), but the best solution is to install a

paintable plastic panel behindYou’ll find them in various sizes at plumbing suppliers, some home centers or online (search forBuy a panel that’s at least 14 x 14 in. If you don’t want to install a panel because it would be an eyesore, an oversized cover plate inside the shower surround is another option have an access panel but it’s too low to provide easy access to the faucet, you can install a second panel above the existing Don’t try to position the access hole the tub spout or faucet handles and punch a marker hole through the wallIf the wall is plaster rather than drywall, use a drill and a long bit instead of a screwdriver. Before you cut a hole sized for the access panel, cut a smaller hole (Photo 2). can see exactly where the pipes and valves are located and position the full-size hole for best access to them. access panel frame as a template to markTo avoid damaging the

frame of the panel, install it after you’ve replaced the faucet (Photo 3). If your tub or shower faucet is dripping, see How to Repair a Dripping Tub Faucet. For tips on working with different types of pipe, see How to Join Dissimilar Pipes. Problem 2: Galvanized steel pipe Unlike copper or plastic, steel pipes are joined with threaded,So you can’t simply cut the hot and cold supply pipes. That would remove the threaded ends and you’d have no reliable way to connect new pipe. To preserve those threaded ends, unscrew the union fittings that connect the supply lines to the faucet (Photo 1). leave the spout nipple connected to the faucet and remove it along with the valve. If the faucet is connected to a showerhead, cut the “shower riser” pipe (Photo 2). This pipe isn’t under constant pressure, so you can reconnect it with a special coupler later. Connect the new faucet as shown in Photo 3. cutoff shower riser, use a special compression coupler designed

for galvanized steel pipe (called a “Dresser” coupling). seal and easier installation, apply Teflon pipe sealant to the coupler’s threads and rubber seals. Run the shower and check the coupler for leaks. If you find one, tighten the coupler’s nuts. Figure A: New Shower Valve Connections to Galvanized Pipe Make the connections shown when going from old galvanized pipe to copper pipe and adding the new valve. Also add new shutoffs. Problem 3: Replacing two handles with one If you have a two-handle faucet, it’s easiest to replace it with another two-handleIf you want the convenience of a single handle, you’ll have to hide the two holes left by the handles. cover plate does just that. Plus, it covers an access hole, possibly allowing you to skip adding an access panel. Keep in mind that replacing a faucet using this smaller hole can be difficult if not impossible—a large access panel makes the job much easier.

oversized cover plates (about $23) at plumbing supply stores or online (search for “renovation To install a single-handle faucet, you’ll have to cut a hole into your shower surround. If your surround is fiberglass or acrylic, cut the hole using a jigsaw and a fine-tooth blade (a coarse blade causes more vibration, which can crack the surround). Apply strips of masking tape to the surround to avoid scratching or chippingRun the saw at full speed, but push it slowly and gently along the cutIf you feel the blade hitting a pipe inside the wall, stop immediately and continue past the pipe using a hacksaw blade. To cut tile, use a rotary tool equipped with a tile-cutting bit (Photo 1). Set the cutting depth of the bit at 1/4 in. and make the first pass. passes, setting the bit 1/4 in. deeper each time until you’ve cut completely throughIf you don’t own a rotary tool, you have a few other options: You