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Photo by Leslie Hayward Leslie writes at 10:30pm: “One of the houses on the corner of 17th and Lamont went… HAVANA — Travel experts and upscale magazines are urging travel to Cuba before it changes. Visitors envisioning salsa in the streets and glamorous vintage cars should also be prepared to manage without ATMs, credit cards, Wi-Fi, air conditioning, seat belts or toilet paper. Here are tips for visiting Havana.I forgot to bring my toothbrush. It took me three days to find a new one.Granted, I was in a casa particular, a Cuban homestay booked through Airbnb in a run-down part of town. Street vendors sell Che Guevara T-shirts and tropical fruit, but good luck buying sunscreen or Band-Aids. The fancy hotels sell some things in shops, but Havana just doesn’t have many stores.Public bathrooms aren’t bad, but I was glad I’d brought a roll of toilet paper in my bag.This cheerful salutation greeted me as I walked past crumbling buildings and rubble-filled streets in Old Havana.

Blond, 5 foot 10, map in hand: Yeah, I stood out. But conversations with overly friendly strangers often devolved into shakedowns. Cheap Van Rentals In Brooklyn NyThey wanted to sell me cigars or exchange my dollars. Bedroom Furniture Spot ReviewsCould I buy them drinks or give money for their children?Fairy Lights For TentsViolent crime in Havana is rare. I never felt threatened, just hassled.For my flight home, I got to Havana’s airport at 5:30 a.m., just as the paperwork specified. Too bad the airport didn’t open until nearly 7 a.m.I also went to the H. Upmann cigar factory for a tour, only to be sent to a different location for a ticket. There I was told, “There are no tours today, but we can sell you a ticket for tomorrow!”

Havana is not always a logical place.Do you remember traveling without credit cards, ATMs and smartphones? Then visiting Cuba will be a trip back in time. Bring cash to change into convertible pesos, also known as CUCs (not CUPs, the currency used by locals). Budget carefully: There are only a handful of ATMs in Havana, and U.S. bank cards aren’t currently accepted.On paper, one U.S. dollar is worth one CUC, but the Cuban government takes a 13 percent fee, so you get 87 cents for your dollar. Privately, Cubans may offer 90 cents or more on the dollar; be careful whom you trust.I have MasterCard, Visa and American Express cards, but none could be authorized for use in Cuba in May. Even when the rules change (or if your card is from a non-U.S.-bank), businesses rarely accept plastic.Cuba’s offline culture makes trip-planning complicated. It takes days to confirm arrangements because most Cubans can’t check email from home. Automated online reservations are rare.Hotels sell Internet cards for lobby Wi-Fi for $4 or $5 per 30 minutes.

Even then, though, the Wi-Fi may not work.A paper map is essential; drivers don’t have GPS and there’s no Googling an address on the fly.Cuba’s vintage cars sound picturesque — until you’re in one with no seat belts, no air conditioning in 90-degree heat, broken windows, belching smoke and doors that open in transit.Havana’s official, government-owned taxis seemed to be in better condition than privately owned cars — though tourists are routinely overcharged. Meters supposedly exist, but I never saw one.Government-run cafeterias in public places like museums are dreadful. Stick to paladares — privately owned restaurants. You’ll need reservations for the best. Prices are moderate but not cheap; food is good but not outstanding. My best meals were at 304 O’Reilly (the restaurant name is also the street address), which offers trendy, light fare, and Cafe Ajiaco in Cojimar (Calle 92, number 267), whose owner showcases what he sees as the best of traditional Cuban cuisine.

A safe bet in most eateries is a ham and cheese sandwich — called a Cuban in the U.S., but jamon y queso here. Cafe con leche is uniformly superb, as is tropical fruit.For a drinking tour, consider Ernest Hemingway’s advice: “My mojito in La Bodeguita, my daiquiri in El Floridita.” The handwritten quote, allegedly scribbled by Hemingway himself, is framed at La Bodeguita del Medio over a bar mobbed with tourists. The Floridita is nicer: great air conditioning, icy daiquiris and a bust of Hemingway, perfect for selfies.The Hotel Nacional’s outdoor bar is lovely, on a lawn with a view of the sea. Have a Cuba libre (rum and cola, but not Coke) or a Cristal beer.Havana’s best attractions include the waterfront promenade known as the Malecón, Old Havana, Hemingway’s estate at Finca Vigia and the Museo de la Revolución, where “Cretins’ Corner” mocks Ronald Reagan and the Bush presidencies. The stunning Cuban collection at the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes ranges from colonial portraits to 20th-century political pop art.