Ideally, your dog lives inside with the rest of the family. But in instances when he stays outside for extended periods, he needs a safe, comfortable place to shelter. Besides water and a source of protection from the elements, his kennel needs waterproof, overheating-resistant flooring to safeguard his feet. Wooden Platforms Dirt and grass are great for running and playing on, but in the kennel they get muddy after rain and can quickly become unsanitary and harbor parasites, posing health concerns. Loose materials like wood chips and straw, which turn sodden and spongy when wet, are similarly less than ideal. Instead, use untreated wood decking over gravel or concrete for a softer platform with good drainage. Paint the wood with nontoxic outdoor paint for rot- and weather-resistance. Never use treated wood, which contains toxins that could harm your dog if he chews or lies on it. Plastic Flooring Plastic flooring comes in quite a few forms – planks, solid sheets, insulated units, tiles and so forth -- and all forms offer some advantages over other materials.

Plastic is lightweight, easy to arrange and inexpensive to ship. it often incorporates sun-, mold-, mildew- and stain-resistant elements; Hairless Cats For Sale In Orlando Floridait withstands weather extremes; Little Mermaid Seat Covers For Carsand, when designed specifically for kennel flooring, it is usually guaranteed against chewing and scratching. T Shirts Rhinestone DesignIn addition, it is a poor heat conductor so it maintains a reasonably comfortable temperature in hot or cold weather. It is also easy to clean. Other Natural Surfaces Natural rubber or bamboo mats are comfortable, safe options -- especially over hard surfaces like concrete -- and are removable for cleaning. You don't need expensive commercial products designed specifically for dogs.

Shop for large rubber doormats or antifatigue mats like those used in workplaces, or check construction salvage stores for bamboo planking or tiles leftover from building projects. Ensure the materials are thick and substantial enough to withstand chewing; replace them when worn. Broken pieces may become choking hazards. Gravel, Sand and Stone Many dog owners use gravel or sand in kennels because it looks neat, drains well and is relatively inexpensive. Though those are definitely pluses, stone materials are not ideal kennel surfaces for several reasons. First, stone conducts heat rather efficiently. That makes it cold to lie upon in winter and hot in summer. Second, sharp particles of gravel and sand can stick to your dog's paws and cause cuts or bruises. Third, loose materials invite bored dogs to dig, so eventually dirt and weeds mix with the neat gravel floor and morph into the unkempt, dirt-floored kennel you were trying to avoid in the first place. Concrete Plus In many ways concrete is an ideal kennel floor surface -- for humans.

It is durable, weatherproof, easy to clean and neat-looking. It's uncomfortable for your dog, though. Concrete, like stone, heats and cools with the weather, makes a hard bed to lie upon and can abrade soft foot pads. You can fix the problems and retain the benefits however, by pouring the concrete pad so that it slopes slightly, for good drainage, and by building at least one raised platform of wood or furnishing rubber or other padded surfaces for your dog's comfort. As an alternative to a solid slab, consider making a partial floor of concrete pavers planted between with a durable ground cover like elfin thyme or Irish moss to help mitigate temperature extremes and make a more comfortable surface. Warnings Always check plant toxicity using lists provided by animal welfare groups like the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals before planting in dog areas. The Humane Society of the United States recommends never using wire grid as any part of the flooring in your dog's kennel.

It is uncomfortable, unsafe and unsanitary, and can lead to a variety of physical and mental problems. References Baker Institute: Animal Health: Canine Hookworm InfectionsEPA: Chromated Copper Arsenate (CCA): What You Need to Know About Wood Pressure Treated With CCAASPCA: Toxic and Non-Toxic PlantsThe Humane Society of the United States: Problems With Grid Flooring in Dog Kennels Photo Credits Kichigin/iStock/Getty Images MORE MUST-CLICKS: How to Wash a Dog Bed How to Feed Your Boxer The Best Dry Food for Retired Greyhounds What Happens if a Dog Eats Cat Food for a Long Time? How to Decorate Your Kennel Foods That Have Potassium for Dogs Weighted Vests for Dogs How to Cook for My Maltese Dog Low Protein Foods for Dogs Chew Treats for DogsMarketplace - Sort By: Date Old-New Connecting buyers and sellers of reclaimed materials. Browse the categories below to find reused materials in your area. Can't find what you need or needing larger quantities? 1 2 3 Next » How difficult is it to remove Mexican style saltillo floor tile from a concrete floor?

These hexagonal tiles in our kitchen have been in place for about 30 years & are badly worn. One quote to strip, stain & reseal all tiles on our first floor to match was more than it would cost (I think) to remove and put in some type of wood or wood-look flooring. Having put in and taken out a number of quarry and terra-cotta tile floors while working with my dad (a tile contractor), I can confidently say you better be prepared for a real job if you do it yourself. However, as it is labor-intensive you can save a lot of the money if you don't mind losing the use of the room for a while, and don't mind getting good and dirty. The tile is either glued to the concrete below, or more likely if 30 years old, installed with thin-set mortar. Getting the tiles off intact is essentially impossible, so write off any thoughts of that. Chiselling or hammering the tiles off the mortar bed is actually not too tough - the tile does not generally stick overly well to the grout, which is why these types of floors commonly have problems with tiles coming loose over the years.

There are several videos on Youtube showing how to do it.The real job is removing the grout layer under the tiles, or at least grinding it down flat enough to put another floor surface over it. I can easily believe a removal qoute would bet more than a laminate floor installation.Two possibilities come to mind - one is to remove only the really worn tiles, and replace them with complimentary (you will never "match" existing) colored or patterned tiles in the most trafficked areas - this is fairly common, as only 5-10% typically need replacement. Another possibility would be a tap test on every tile, and loose tile removal and mastic reseating with grout joint repair to ensure all tiles are firmly seated, then just overlaying with an isolation layer and "floating" laminate floor such as would normally be installed on a basement concrete floor. Of course, this means a 1/2-1" elevation difference between rooms being overlaid and others not being touched, like bathrooms and such.You need to talk to a ceramic tile contractor for the first option.