Added on: August 28, 2011 2X 10 foot crown molding ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► ► I love framed mirrors in the bathroom but I really don't like the idea of ripping out a large builder mirror to replace it with a smaller framed one. Not only is it hurting the environment, it hurts my pocket book. So at our first house we framed our builder grade mirror with some cheap MDF molding and ever since, we have been hooked on this cheap, but with a huge impact, solution. I saw on Our Suburban Cottage, over a year ago, an amazing mirror that she created in her bathroom. Using her design, my husband was able to create this stunning addition to our master bathroom's mini-reno. I fully intend to redo everything out of this bathroom when time and money permits; but for now we had to do cosmetic changes that have made this bathroom livable for a few years. We did two bathrooms with this type of frame. This bathroom mirror is between 2 walls so I will give these instructions.

When I have some time I will show you how to do a bathroom mirror that is not butted against two walls. Before (when we bought the house): After (after some minor and inexpensive changes): Materials needed: 1x4 MDF trim (to go the entire way around the mirror) Thin trim with one side rounded (2 times the width of the mirror) Crown molding (the width of the mirror) Liquid nails (be sure it adheres to glass!) Paint all the trim both back and front. You might not think of painting the back side, but take my word, you will see the reflection of the back side in the mirror.  I spray painted the trim and I loved the smooth look; I personally have issues with getting my paint smooth so this was my only option. Measure (twice) the width of the mirror and cut 2 pieces of 1x4 trim and the rounded trim. Paint the ends that have been cut. We then secured the one 1x4 and rounded trim to the bottom of the mirror. We used liquid nails to attach the peice to the mirror and used my son's lego as a support it until it was dry.

After determining exactly where we wanted the top of the frame to be, we measure the distance between the top and the bottom molding and then cut two 1x4 pieces for the sides. These two pieces were then glued to the mirror tight against the bottom piece. With the second glued "trim to 1x4", we flipped it and glued the crown molding to the opposite side of the 1x4. Once set, this piece was then glued to the top of the mirror. We did put a couple triangle pieces on the back of the crown to give it additional support, but this is optional. My husband caulked the seams to make it the frame seamless and not look like pieces of wood. Isn't it absolutely AMAZING!?!?  I think in total it cost under $30 to do this frame. Worth every penny in my opinion. In total for this mini-renovation we painted the entire bathroom, framed the mirror, replaced the counter top with an in stock piece from Lowes, bought two beautiful raised sinks on clearance at Lowes, purchased 2 new lights from a cheap local store, made some roman blinds out of a scrap curtain and bought a couple new faucets. 

These simple things have made a huge difference. I still hate the shower but I can live with it for a few more years :) Oh and I almost forgot...I made a pendant lamp that hangs above our large soaker tub from a really cheap lamp shade ($10 at Walmart) and a pendant kit from Lowes. I love it too :) It has one low watt bulb it in which is great when you are soaking in the tub. Not much brighter than a few candles but enough to read by.Digital Photography Classes Southern CaliforniaI love it every day I walk into the bathroom.Moving To San Luis Obispo City Data Answers to the clip questions: There have been questions about the clips holding the mirror on the wall. Outdoor Furniture Rental Orange County Ca

On all of our mirrors, we have flush/flat metal hooks that holds the mirror to the wall. You can see the metal clip on the photo below, it is immediately below the light. We were able to put the molding right over the hooks without a problem. We know that when we want to remove the mirror we will have to destroy it..the builder glued it to the drywall. If you have the plastic hooks that are not flush (with the screw through them) you will not be able to do this unless you replace them. Create an Account | Videos in the Series Building Custom Picture Frames: Introduction Specialized Miter Sled (Picture Frames Series) Router Table Moldings (Picture Frames Series) Frame Assembly (Picture Frames Series) Mounting Art (Picture Frames Series) Post your work in The Gallery Built this project or one like it? Post photos in our online gallery. Tag it with the word "picture frame". Download the free plan that includes detailed drawings of the tablesaw sled the two picture frame molding styles.

Become a Better Woodworker More Members Only Videos Make Beautiful Bandsawn Boxes Limbert Inspired Coffee Table Single Board Side Table Veneered Boxes with a TwistI love to buy old picture frames, well because I like old stuff. I am especially fond of those old gilded plaster frames. They set off my landscape prints really well. The only draw back is that ones in good shape aren't cheap and the ones that are cheap are in poor repair. Oh woes me, what's a poor girl to do? Go to the library of course. While there, I found a little book that told of ways to repair miscellaneous collectibles. And guess what I found in this little book? Yep, you guessed it. How to repair damaged gilded picture frames. But Can I Repair and Restore the Picture Frame?After reading through the instructions, I said to myself, "I could do that". In fact, my repairs were good enough to allow some of my better frames to actually be sold on E-bay a few years back. I just finished restore a really old frame that has been on my "to do" list for a long time.

6 Steps to Repairing Your Picture Frame Tools and Supplies NeededThese are the only tools and supplies that you need to get the job done: One Pack of Modeling Clay One Container of "Plaster of Paris" Chopsticks and Disposable Cup for Mixing Abrasives to Smooth Edges This Is Where We BeginThis is a picture of the frame after the plaster mold has been glued in place. It may look a little rough now, but wait till you see the fully restored frame. 1. Clean the FramePlace the picture frame on a flat surface and wash it down with a little soap and water. use only enough to get it clean because if the plaster gets too wet, it will get soft. If you still have the glass in it, use that blue tape to mask around the edges. (I like the blue stuff because it comes off easy and doesn't leave any of itself behind). Let the frame dry completely. 2. Soften Up the ClayNow take the modeling clay and soften it up in your hands so can be easily worked. The clay will be used to make a mold of the undamaged parts of the frame so the damaged parts can be filled in.

3. Make the Mold The first thing to do is to thoroughly spay the part of the frame being used to make the molds with cooking spray. Take a piece of the clay and make a small block with it. Then flatten it till it reaches a size that will cover the plaster decoration. Press in over the section and press really hard. Now you have the mold for the missing parts It will take a little practice to get molds that will be the right size. They must be thick enough to duplicate the design but thin enough so that you don't have a really thick molded piece. If the molded piece is too thick, it won't match the rest of the frame. Eventually, you will get the hang of it and get a clay mold that will be a good fit. 4. Mix the PlasterMix up a small amount of plaster of paris in small container. I like to use clear plastic disposable cups. Add the plaster of Paris. I don't measure, I just put in what looks right. But depending on how much frame there is to repair, 1/4 to 1/2 a cup should be more than enough.

Add the water and little at a time, stirring well. Here is where I use the chopstick. The plaster of paris needs to be thin enough to pour easily but not watery. If it is the consistency of pancake batter, it will be just about right. Mixing the plaster is the trickiest part because if you stir the plaster to hard it gets full of bubbles and these bubbles will harden in the mold ruining it. When you have smooth, bubble free plaster that is about the consistency of pancake batter, its time to get rolling. 5. Make the Replacement Now, spray the molds again with the cooking spray. This makes the plaster easier to remove from the mold. Pour in the plaster. Now here comes another use for the chop stick. Use it to level the bottom edge of the mold. You want it to be as even as possible so it will fit snug onto the frame. Now let it dry overnight. 6. Smooth the Mold Until It FitsAfter the plaster has dried, remove it gently from the mold. Now comes the hardest part of the whole process.

Use an emery board, a small screwdriver or a sharp blade (you will have to find what works best for you). The big the piece of plaster, the bigger tool you will need. All the rough edges and the back of the piece need to be smoothed out. If it is a little too big to fit neatly into the spot to be repaired, just keep shaving it down until it fits. Don't worry about making an exact fit. Once the frame is painted and hung, it will be really hard to see where the damage was. Make sure that the surface of the frame is clean and dry. Put a little wood glue on your finger and spread it over the area where the plaster piece will go. Do the same for the back of the plaster piece. Put the plaster piece into the spot and it's done. Pictures of The Repaired FrameBelow are the pictures of the repaired frame. It compares the damaged and undamaged parts of the frame. It is only upon close inspection that the replacement parts can be seen. On the wall, they are all but invisible. Comments Go to last comment