America's Premium Floor Coating Ideal for concrete & wood floor coating applications Epoxy Coat Garage Flooring Professional Grade EpoxyGarage Floor Coating Kits Epoxy-Coat garage flooring is the most durable and longest lasting 100% solids Cycloaliphatic epoxy floor coating kit on the market today. Our kits are ideal for garage, basement, patio, industrial or commercial concrete or wood floor coating. The applications are endless, and you can revitalize any floor to get a great new look with superior durability, giving you professional reliability and a great look in no time. When comparing the thickness after dried application between Epoxy-Coat and normal epoxies, you will notice that you need over 2.5X the gallons to equal the thickness of 1 gallon of Epoxy-Coat. Our product has been designed through extensive testing for years to ensure that it retains the highest durability while being easy to apply and use. This means that you can get the job done with one layer and do not need to spend days applying several coats for the same strength.

You can do it yourself in an afternoon and get a beautiful finish on your garage floor, basement, indoor patio, wood floor and even commercial floor coating applications. This project is quick and easy and can be completed in no time, so you will be enjoying your beautiful new floors without needing to call in professional help and wait weeks. In addition to your outdoor applications, Epoxy-Coat garage flooring can be used in any room in your house safely, and is ideal for children’s play rooms, bathrooms, basements, laundry rooms, kitchens and mud rooms. Epoxy-Coat can be applied in a single coat with the thickness of 5+ coats of paint with no odor and a dry time of 12 hours.Epoxy-Coat is perfect for rough and pitted concrete floors due to the self-leveling nature and 100% solids non-shrinking formula. It will repair cracks and damage with ease, giving you a smooth floor that looks and feels brand new the moment it dries. A single use of Epoxy-Coat garage flooring will patch and coat all in one application.

Our floor coating is the most durable and longest lasting epoxy coating kit of its kind, and it outperforms all other national brands. You will notice a huge difference in no time, and will enjoy a lifetime of reliability and great looking floors! • Lifetime Warranty• 10x more durable• 5x thicker This is Not a Sub-Standard Water Based Epoxy Kit; Epoxy-Coat® is the ONLY Industrial Grade Single-Coat Application of its kind!Used Book Sale Portland Oregon 70 oz. Metallic Silver Bullet Garage Floor Kit (Case of 2)Outdoor Lounge Furniture Lowes Use on a range of indoor concrete surfacesCar Seat Cover Etsy Low odor and VOC free Rust-Oleum RockSolid 70 oz. Metallic Silver Bullet Garage Floor Kit (Case of 2) offers unsurpassed durability.

Made with a unique Polycuramine formula that is 20 times stronger than epoxy. Resistant to salt, oil, gas and other harsh chemicals, this is one of the toughest floor coatings available. Product formula is perfectly suited for high traffic areas like garages and workshops but still safe enough to be used in other interior spaces like basements, laundry rooms and family rooms. Zero VOC's and a low odor make it a great choice for almost any indoor application. Easy to maintain, lasts a lifetime while still looking fantastic. Virtually VOC and odor free, ideal for use on interior concrete surfaces: garage floors, workshops, basements and other interior concrete surfaces Self-leveling, buildable formula is 20X stronger than epoxy, resists chemicals, cracking, peeling and hot-tire pick up 1-kit covers up to 125 sq. ft. depending upon surface porosity Extreme high-gloss finish in a shimmery metallic color provides a showroom quality floor in 1-coat Strongly adheres to concrete for lasting durability

Offers quick return to use: 8 hours to 10 hours walk on time, vehicle ready in 24 hours Low odor and virtually VOC free makes it easy to use in many interior areas of the home including basements, mud rooms, laundry rooms, rec rooms and more Clean up with mineral spirits Kit includes polycuramine pouch, polyamide roller, metallic tint, etch, instructions Thoroughly read instructions prior to application for optimal results Measure square footage carefully, average 2 car garage will need 2 to 3 cases to complete project Online price includes a PaintCare fee in the following states: CA, CO, CT, ME, MN, OR, RI and VT Use and Care Manual Coverage Area (sq. ft.): 4 What is all included in the kit? and how many kits do I need for 25x25 garage? 3 Can this be used on a covered patio Hey, I have a covered patio with a concrete floor and would like to use this. It kinda outside but covered .. What do you think. 3 can this be used on cement board?

what can I use to fill in creases and screws? 2 What primer is compatible? I want to use the Silver Bullet Metallic and from some of the reviews it was said that you have to lay it on very thick to get good coverage. Most of the professional grade products, in this color, come with a black primer. Is a primer recommended? If so what color / product?Happy Monday my friends!  You may or may not know that about a year and 1/2 ago I posted a really through tutorial for painting concrete/cement.  Ivie’s floor was my first experience and its held up really well, so well in fact, that I decided to rip the carpet out of Dylan’s room and paint her floor too. So why another tutorial?  Well, I’ve learned a few things along the way that I would love for you to know to (in case you are planning on tackling your own concrete painting project!) First up is carpet removal.  Not the funnest job in the world, that is for sure.  Dyl’s room is preeeeetty small so it wasn’t a horribly hard job (but if you need a few more tips on that, pop over and check out this post on YHL.)

Once your carpet and pad are out its time to remove the tack strips.  (Those are the pieces of wood along the edge of your carpet that hold it in place.)  You can use a myriad of tools for this from a chisel, to a hammer, to a screw driver.  We used floor scrapers to remove them (you can see both of them in the picture above)  The one on the left is a little finer and you have a little more control, and the one on the right is sort of like the bulldozer of floor scrapers and destroys everything in its path.  Basically you are using them to pry up the tack strips.  Make sure when you pick them up you are wearing gloves, those suckers are sharp. Now you have the fun job of getting off all of the carpet glue.  And actually the proper spelling of that would be Carpet Human Fly Trap GAAA-LOOOOOOE.  Our carpet was laid when we moved into our house 4 years ago and the glue was still VERY sticky.  I don’t know at what point it looses its tack and becomes concrete like but I have heard that does happen….

In my first post I talked about dousing it with  Lacquer Thinner and letting it sit and then dousing it again and scraping it off with a plastic scraper.   This is what I have learned since then,  if you pour a fair amount of Lacquer Thinner on and then cover it with a plastic garbage bag for 10 minutes the glue comes RIGHT off.  Very little scraping involved.  I took a few garbage bags and cut them down one side and the bottom so that they could cover a larger area. If you previously had carpet, then you are going to have lots of cute little holes along your baseboard that will need to be filled before you can paint.  Mix up a batch of Quickcrete and fill your holes (its ok if you overfill them a little) and let it cure overnight. The last prep step is to sand your heart out.  Use a pole sander (you can buy them for around $6.00 at Sherwin Williams) and 80 Grit Sand Paper to rough up the entire surface of the floor.   Sand the entire floor one direction, then sweep it up. 

Then sand it in the opposite direction, then sweep it up.  Then sand one MORE time and this time when you sweep you want to sweep, vacuum, sweep, vacuum.  Until you are SURE there is no dust left. (If you get it wet at this point you will have to wait 24 hours for it to fully dry, so don’t do that)  Just sweep and vacuum like your floor’s life depends on it…because it does.  Take special care to sand along the edges where you filled the tack strip holes and they should blend right in. Now comes the fun part. Painting a floor is hands down the easiest thing on the planet.  In fact I would rather paint 5000 floors than 1 ceiling.   You don’t even need a paint tray! But you do need good paint.  Regular latex paint is NOT for this project.   You need something specially designed to withstand the beatings that a floor takes.  The paint that I recommend is Sherwin Williams Porch and Floor Enamel.  It is AMAZING and has held up SO well in Ivie’s room.   It is a water based paint (so no crazy fumes) that is self priming and goes on so smooth. 

You do not want to get the wrong product when you are doing a project like this (can you imagine?!).   You can have it tinted to any color of the rainbow, but personally I love the Extra White Base. Make sure that you are using a microfiber roller cover that has a 5/16” nap for a really smooth finish. (If you are doing a top coat you will need to buy 2 of them.) Pour your paint onto the corner furthest away from your door.  I usually pour an amount that is the size of a dinner plate.  If you have closets in the space you will want to start there. Roll it the same way that you would roll a wall, in a “W” pattern.  Make sure that you are not leaving any gobs behind (yes, gobs is the technical term.) Also, notice in the picture above that the holes that were filled absorb the paint more than the regular floor.  So go over those extra well. This picture is after 1 coat. Let coat 1 cure for a few hours.  Once it is dry recoat following the same pattern. 

I didn’t need more than 2 coats on Dylan’s floor, but if you do, wait the appropriate amount of time before you recoat. Sherwin Williams Porch and Floor Enamel does not require a top coat to seal it.  You can leave it just how it is with a Satin finish and be golden as the geese on Willy Wonka. I LOVE LOVE LOVE having a top coat on because it makes cleaning the floors easier.  It makes them shinier (this picture from Ivie’s room is the perfect example!) If you are putting on a top coat, wait 24 hours before you do it to let your paint cure. The top coat I recommend is H&C Wet Look Concrete Sealer (you can also buy this at Sherwin Williams).   DO NOT use a polyurethane on top of your floor, especially if you have used white paint.  You will hate your life when it yellows. *When I did Ivie’s room I did 2 coats of Sealer and there are a few places where the concrete was not level and it puddled there and has yellowed a little bit.  So I would just say to one coat it and avoid that possible problem.