Homemade Laser Light Show

Just because you can make something at home, doesn’t necessarily mean you should. A laser ‘shotgun’ that uses a lens to combine eight 5W lasers into something that should definitely spice up your next PowerPoint. The terrifying death machine was built by YouTuber styropyro, who has a long and detailed history of messing around with lasers. This particular rig uses eight 5W lasers, mounted with parallel beams onto a giant heatsink, and powered with a big-ass battery. The result is a fairly legit laser gun, capable of bursting balloons and setting fire to pieces of wood. To put the 40 watts of laser power in perspective: the most powerful laser you can buy off the shelf is 0.005 watts; the US Navy’s prototype laser cannon, powered by a warship and capable of shooting down drones, is 30,000 watts. In all fairness, a lot of the power of the laser shotgun is presumably lost, as the light is scattered somewhat by the optics. I still wouldn’t want it pointed anywhere near my eyes, though.

Reproduction of this document in whole or in part is permitted if both of the following conditions are satisfied: This is a machine (script) generated set of links to every chapter and section
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(Note: Some systems apparently will not support cgi scripts due to security issues.) Site does include a search engine for the entire S.E.R FAQ so that In order to guarantee compatibility, the version number of this file (lasertoc.htm) and the one in Sam's Laser FAQ Welcome Page must be the same. The Three Letter Abbreviations (TLAs) :-) on each link line below refer to the last three letters of the name of the file containing the specific chapter orChapters and the start of major sections are in bold face; others are in normal type and their links are indented. Note: The links below open up a single new browser window so the Comprehensive Table of Contents will remain present, sort of likeComments, pro or con, welcome.First-graders watch during one experiment that explains light reflection and refraction in a physics class. (Photo by Jeff Sabo) by Kristal Humphrey, university news and communications Nearly 1,100 Talawanda students in first through fifth grades learned about chemistry, physics, geology and other science areas during Miami University’s Science Week, May 16-20.

The students, one grade level per day, visited Miami classrooms and labs and performed science experiments. Nearly 100 Miami faculty, staff and students facilitated activities ranging from identifying vitamin C content in common beverages to a laser light show. Burcin Bayram pulls out a glass cup hidden in a glycerin-filled jar. Science Week — the brainchild of Michael Crowder, chair and professor of chemistry and biochemistry — began 10 years ago as a way to get elementary-aged students excited about science. Crowder said it demonstrates how science is relevant in their lives and shows them science is fun. Richard Bretz, assistant professor of chemistry and biochemistry, is the current coordinator. Ryan Barter, STEM instructional leader for the Talawanda School District, said the schools are thankful for the generosity of time and energy by so many Miami faculty and staff. “Our students get such a full experience. They are gaining great scientific knowledge,” Barter said.

“Science classes are gateways to many, many careers, and we want the children to be curious and continue to ask ‘why’ and ‘how’ questions about the world they live in,” said Stacey Lowery Bretz, University Distinguished Professor of Chemistry and Biochemistry and one of this year’s presenters. Students learned why the ocean is blue in a lesson on reflection and refraction of light with the help of lasers. Burcin Bayram, associate professor of physics, and two of her research students surprised the students with optical illusions, including one where she she pulled a glass cup hidden from a larger glass jar filled with glycerin. “We loved hearing the ‘oohs’ and ‘ahs’ at the moment we created a laser waterfall by trapping a laser beam inside a water stream, and again, at the moment we turned on our homemade laser Spirograph light show,” she said. Participating departments include chemistry and biochemistry; chemical, paper and biomedical engineering;

mechanical and manufacturing engineering; electrical and computer engineering; the Institute for the Environment and Sustainability; and the Hefner Museum of Natural History. The students taking part in Science Week are from Marshall, Kramer, and Bogan elementary schools.In this tutorial, we'll attempt to follow Einstein's dictum so you can make holograms easily. The procedures we propose herein are as simple as it is physically possible. In the process, we make holography not only as simple as possible, but safer, less expensive, and more accessible to young people. Most of the essential items described in this article can be found in our Integraf hologram kits or are available separately. The kits let you make many kinds of holograms, including the reflection hologram (viewable with whitelight) and transmission hologram (viewable and projectable with laser light) described in this tutorial. Before diving into the details, here's a super duper quick overview on how a hologram is made.

Making a hologram involves recording the interference pattern that occurs when light coming from a stabilized laser meets its own light bouncing back from the object it's illuminating. The key is to set up the laser, the object, and the recording film or plate in a way that captures the interference pattern. Once that's done, we simply need to expose the object and film plate with the laser light and then develop the exposed film plate. Once you get the hang of it, the whole process can be completed in 3 minutes. Our holograms kits include everything you need to make holograms, including step-by-step instructions and tips. Since we need to capture microscopic interence pattern exactly as it is at one moment in time, you can imagine how movement of the object, the film plate, or laser can mess things up. In fact, movement of any element by more than 1 millionth of a meter is enough to ruin your hologram. For that reason, we have to make sure our set up is super stable, i.e. no movement, no vibrations, no noise, no air currents, etc.

You will need the diode laser discussed below, a supply of PFG-03M 2.5 x 2.5 inch film plates (63mm x 63mm), and a JD-4 processing kit (or alternatively, PFG-01 plates with JD-2). All of these items are included in the HOLOKIT hologram kits or available separately from our catalog. Though slightly trickier and thus not recommended for first-time holographers, one can also use PFG-01 holographic film sheets sandwiched and clipped between two glass plates instead of using holographic plates. For the instructions below, substitute the properly sandwiched film sheet for the holographic glass plates. See our article on how to use holographic film sheets for important details. TIP: You may also be interested in our latest step-by-step instructions or our tutorial on how to make transmission holograms. To make holograms, we take off the collimating lens of the laser to shine its pure, naturally spread beam right on to the holographic plate and object. The figure below shows a Class IIIa diode laser with an output of 3 to 4 mW when operated by 3.0 v dc.

If the power is supplied by batteries, its red light of wavelength 650 nm achieves a coherence length exceeding 1 m after a warm-up period of a few minutes. The traditional helium-neon laser, on the other hand, operates on dangerously high voltages, is prone to breakage, has a shorter shelf life, and a coherence length of approximately 30 cm. Unlike many laser diodes and laser pointers, the laser shown below and in our catalog has a stabilized frequency output (a must for holography), good coherence length (also a must), and a removable collimating lens. With the spring-loaded collimating lens mounted on the laser, the output beam can be adjusted to focus at any arbitrary distance. To make holograms, we'll actually take off the collimating lens. Without the lens, the direct output from the laser spreads out with a highly eccentric elliptical profile. Since the beam encounters no external optical elements, the light has no mottled patterns caused by interference and diffractions, and appears perfectly clean.

In other words, we'll be shining this pure beam right on to the holographic plate and object. The responsible parent or teacher is advised to remove the lens and the small tension spring before allowing the student to use the laser. This way, the power density received by human eyes will not exceed that received when looking at an ordinary grocery store laser scanner. When the laser is not in use, replace the collimating lens (with or without the tension spring). This helps ensure that you won't lose the lens and, more importantly, will help keep dust out of the laser. If you are using your own "laser pointer" for making holograms, know many laser pointers and diodes do not have frequency stabilizing circuits (like the one above), which is required for holography. Moreover, since most laser pointers do not have a removable collimating lens, you must buy a special optical lens to spread the beam. With two lenses (four lens surfaces) through which the laser beam must shine, there may be many objectionable patterns on the resulting beam due to the four lens surfaces and the dirt on them.

An excellent support for such a small laser is a wooden clothespin, as shown below. For mechanical stability and maneuverability, the clothespin holding the laser is stuck into a cup of sand, salt, or sugar (not pepper!). On the other hand, for schools with available laboratory hardware, the clothespin can be glued to a rod and mounted on a lab stand with a right-angle clamp. The wooden clothespin offers another advantage. It being a thermal insulator, the laser will reach thermal, electrical, and frequency stability a few minutes after it is turned on, assuming batteries are used as its power source. An alternative support would be a rubber-tipped thermometer holder. The "white light reflection hologram" is the simplest to make. We advocate the "contact copy" method, whereby you lean the holographic plate (holoplate) directly against the object during exposure. As long as there is no relative movement between the object and the plate, no separate vibration isolation is needed.

The choice and preparation of the object is crucial: (1) it should be made of a solid material such as a quarter or dime (no furry or fabrics); (2) it must appear bright when illuminated with the red laser light; and (3) it must not move or deform. If it's your first time making a hologram, try to avoid choosing objects that are fabric or fury (e.g. teddy bears) because these objects deform easily. Also avoid large plastic objects as they tend to expand and contract with the slightest change in temperature (even from the heat of your fingers!). For best results, try metal or porcelain objects that can be easily illuminated with laser light and are no larger than the size of the holoplate, such as coins. If there is any doubt about potential movement, you could glue the object to a stable wood or metal platform where the hologram will be made. Another way to dampen movement or vibration is by placing the object on a computer mousepad, or even better, a tray of sand, salt, sugar (or even kitty litter).

TIP: If your object or holographic film plate moves even 1/1000th of an inch during exposure, your hologram will not likely turn out. So avoid talking, music, noise, walking around, air currents, creaky floors, soft objects, temperature changes to the object . . . . What other things can you think of that might cause tiny movements or vibration? Prepare the chemical processing solutions and layout the processing trays as directed by the instructions that accompany the JD-4 (or JD-2) kits. Although the chemicals solutions are termed non-volatile, chemicals evaporate over time and may cause nose and throat irritations. Use the chemicals in a ventilated area. It is not necessary to have a completely dark room. However, the room should be sufficiently dark so that one cannot read in it. Use a standard night-light if necessary so that you can move about safely. Block any direct light from reaching the holography system, i.e. place the nightlight under the table. Now, it's time to make the holgoram!